In our privileged stables of bikes, it ranks towards the bottom of the heap as Bike #2 or lower, but the Rain Bike is no slouch. This is, after all, the bike we rely on in bad weather, trusting it to carry us safely through what typically amounts to the most dangerous conditions we ride in. Provided you ride year-round, you likely ride this machine more often than your Number One – assuming you live in an environment that isn’t a tropical island (I’m looking at you @gianni) or classified as a desert. It follows, then, that this is a machine to be curated with great care and several factors should be kept in mind when selecting the machine for this wet and dirty work.
The first consideration is the material. I hope I’m not spoiling anyone’s fantasy by pointing out that rain isn’t actually made of the sweat falling from Merckx’s guns as he pedals high up on Mount Velomis; it is mostly water, mixed with some acids and other crap. Rain water can cause certain kinds of materials to become compromised in one way or another. Steel, for example, is particularly prone to this through rusting. Calfee’s bamboo frames might be susceptible to becoming soggy – I’m not sure. For a bike which is to be ridden primarily in wet conditions, choose a durable, non-corrosive material like titanium, aluminum or carbon.
The second consideration is the components. Here’s the other news flash about riding in the rain: the roads are less pristine than they are in the dry. Road grit gets in your drivetrain and on on your rims, acting like coarse sandpaper to accelerate wear. Since you’ll be replacing some parts more often than on a bike ridden in the dry, this is a bike for which to get economical about gear selection; you aren’t going to want to replace your full titanium Super-Record cassette and chain after it wears out in 1/3 the time. The shifters, brakes, crankset, and derailleurs don’t have to be greatly affected provided you maintain the bike in the style of a velominatus, but the wheels, bottom bracket, derailleur pulleys, chain, cassette and freehub will certainly feel the strain. Anything that moves, has a bearing, or lets water in is a candidate for accelerated wear.
Third, this has to be a bike you’re going to love riding, not some beater that gets abused and you tolerate throwing your leg over. As much as riding in Rule #9 conditions is badass and an invigorating experience, it does get a bit tiresome when you ride in the rain every day from October to March (or May, for you Pacific-Northwesterners). If your position isn’t right and if the bike isn’t a pleasure to ride, it’s not going to make getting cold and wet any more enjoyable.
Lastly, this bike will be taking abuse, so remember that your safety is entrusted to this machine in conditions when visibility is low, stopping distances increased, and road surfaces slick. Maintain this bike more diligently than any other machine; check the brake pads and rims for dangerous wear, check the metal bits for rust and cracks, and keep a close eye on the chain and cables. Resist the temptation to spray it down with the garden hose as the pressure can lodge the grit deeper into bearings and other nooks and crannies on the bike. After each ride, clean the braking surfaces carefully, wipe the chain down (or, better yet, use a Cyclone with soapy water to get the grit out from in between the links) and always use a wax-based lubricant to keep the dirt from sticking to it more than with traditional oil-based lubes.
But most of all, remember that the best kind of ride is the one you’ll be able to do again; stay safe and ride carefully. Vive la Vie Velominatus.
[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/LVV Rain Bike/”/]
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nice.
my rain bike currently my main bike... hopefully not for too too much longer
Remember... use specially formulated Motorex Wet Lube on that Ti Super-Record cassette (and Record chain)!
Timely article Frank - it has been so wet here for June that I am sprouting gills!! Worst part for me is forgetting to wipe the underside of the downtube and having to chisel off dried worms the next day.
Those photos make me glad I live in Southern California, where rain is something that happens infrequently from October to March.
This is helpful food for thought as I embark on replacing my #2 -- thanks frank.
Hey, hey, I'm just waking up hea'.
For Hawaiian rain bikes people chuck on the carbone fenders on bike #1 for the wet ride, mostly to keep their asses slightly drier. I don't even bother with that. More bike washing of Ti bike, the supreme rain bike which is also bike #1. Since getting wet here doesn't produce hypothermia (unless descending) we can be pretty careless about getting soaked on a ride.
Frank, your rain bike is a bitch.
Making a statement and tweak the nostril hairs of the weather gods? White bar tape on a rain bike...optimistic...or asking for them to empty the bowels from the clouds on you ;) .... (or ofc you may not live in the UK!)
My rain/snow bike was getting along in years and miles. This winter a stay broke and Redline replaced the frame with a shiny new one. It was like Christmas.
@Deakus
That white Fizik tape is so so easy to clean its not even an issue.
Working on a number 2 here in a couple of weeks, just in time for monsoon season to start. Had a sample of it on Saturday. It was the first rain in months(since December I think) but Merckx did it feel great.
Rain bikes usually also have black bartapes and larger tires (around 25mm). Small light signals and fenders are ok for rough conditions!