In our privileged stables of bikes, it ranks towards the bottom of the heap as Bike #2 or lower, but the Rain Bike is no slouch. This is, after all, the bike we rely on in bad weather, trusting it to carry us safely through what typically amounts to the most dangerous conditions we ride in. Provided you ride year-round, you likely ride this machine more often than your Number One – assuming you live in an environment that isn’t a tropical island (I’m looking at you @gianni) or classified as a desert. It follows, then, that this is a machine to be curated with great care and several factors should be kept in mind when selecting the machine for this wet and dirty work.
The first consideration is the material. I hope I’m not spoiling anyone’s fantasy by pointing out that rain isn’t actually made of the sweat falling from Merckx’s guns as he pedals high up on Mount Velomis; it is mostly water, mixed with some acids and other crap. Rain water can cause certain kinds of materials to become compromised in one way or another. Steel, for example, is particularly prone to this through rusting. Calfee’s bamboo frames might be susceptible to becoming soggy – I’m not sure. For a bike which is to be ridden primarily in wet conditions, choose a durable, non-corrosive material like titanium, aluminum or carbon.
The second consideration is the components. Here’s the other news flash about riding in the rain: the roads are less pristine than they are in the dry. Road grit gets in your drivetrain and on on your rims, acting like coarse sandpaper to accelerate wear. Since you’ll be replacing some parts more often than on a bike ridden in the dry, this is a bike for which to get economical about gear selection; you aren’t going to want to replace your full titanium Super-Record cassette and chain after it wears out in 1/3 the time. The shifters, brakes, crankset, and derailleurs don’t have to be greatly affected provided you maintain the bike in the style of a velominatus, but the wheels, bottom bracket, derailleur pulleys, chain, cassette and freehub will certainly feel the strain. Anything that moves, has a bearing, or lets water in is a candidate for accelerated wear.
Third, this has to be a bike you’re going to love riding, not some beater that gets abused and you tolerate throwing your leg over. As much as riding in Rule #9 conditions is badass and an invigorating experience, it does get a bit tiresome when you ride in the rain every day from October to March (or May, for you Pacific-Northwesterners). If your position isn’t right and if the bike isn’t a pleasure to ride, it’s not going to make getting cold and wet any more enjoyable.
Lastly, this bike will be taking abuse, so remember that your safety is entrusted to this machine in conditions when visibility is low, stopping distances increased, and road surfaces slick. Maintain this bike more diligently than any other machine; check the brake pads and rims for dangerous wear, check the metal bits for rust and cracks, and keep a close eye on the chain and cables. Resist the temptation to spray it down with the garden hose as the pressure can lodge the grit deeper into bearings and other nooks and crannies on the bike. After each ride, clean the braking surfaces carefully, wipe the chain down (or, better yet, use a Cyclone with soapy water to get the grit out from in between the links) and always use a wax-based lubricant to keep the dirt from sticking to it more than with traditional oil-based lubes.
But most of all, remember that the best kind of ride is the one you’ll be able to do again; stay safe and ride carefully. Vive la Vie Velominatus.
[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/LVV Rain Bike/”/]
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@Ron
Well, I am bombing around on the rain bike - I use it for training and that means more than half the time its the rain bike that is called to duty. Its the primary reason I went with the Soloist because its the same geometry as the R3 and much, much cheaper used on eBay than a carbon frame.
@Scilly Suffolk
It did rain, and bikes rusted. Yours will too. Which is OK if you replace it when it does. If you prefer the ride of steel over anything else, you're not alone. And if you like it so much more that you're willing to replace it when it rusts, that fine too.
If you're looking for a durable, long-lasting frame that you don't have to paint and framesave every time it gets scratched, then avoid steel.
One last point: this is not twitter. If you have something to say, take the time to say it; don't use a hashtag. For instance, in the case of your example, it would be better for you to say something along the lines of, "You can kiss my white ass, you stupid Dutch fuck."
@Ron
My winter bike is an old Trek 1200 from 1990. Seven-speed, single 40 tooth chainring up front. Old school aluminum with carbon fork. A true workhorse and I figure its Jan/Feb/March/April here i WI, what do I need a 53 tooth chainring for anyway?
And yes, I have the wee racer-type fenders on there. If I'm out riding in snow or on snow melt covered roads here in Wisconsin, I want a bit of protection from icy water. If I could upload them I would, but I have pix of the bike after a March 2011 ride where the spokes were almost as thick as pencils with frozen slush. The drive train was covered in frozen slush as were my legs from the knees down and feet. The roads weren't icy, they were just wet. It was the air temp in the low 30s and the wind chill that caused the icing. One of the more memorable rides of last year to be honest!
Also, from my old racing days in Scotland, group winter rides on what were designated "winter bikes", fenders (or mudguards) were de rigeur. Woe to the rider who was rude and inconsiderate enough to show up without fender protection and sprayed the rest of the group with spray from the wheels. If you ride a lot solo in the rain, no problem; if you ride in company, be polite and fender up.
@wiscot
Frank,
With all due respect, I too will call BS on the mud guard issue. If you are to ride alone and have the fender on to protect your own ass, well then i can see the need for the application of a little Rule #9 followed by a big dollop of Rule #5.
On the other hand, it is a sign of respect to your team mates / fellow group riders to have fenders and flaps. No good purpose is served by subjecting your bunchmates to hours of inundation from the filthy fire hose that is your rear tire.
What group do you ride with in the PNW in the winter that lets you go without?
@Jamie
Being another PNW'r that rides in the rain ('cause you have to or you'll never ride), i have this argument with teammates all the time. I do use race blades when riding with them, just so I don't have to hear 4-5 hours of bitching, but here's the thing; Fenders do fuck all to keep you dry around here. All they do is stave off the inevitable for about 20 min, and act as catchalls for all the pine needles, leaves and other grime. This leads to the constant sound of tire rubbing said grime in the fender and is an added fucking pain in the ass if you flat, trying to get a wheel out of the chain stays, with a fender in the way, with frozen wet fingers. Fuck 'em I say. That is all.............
@the Engine@RedRanger@the Engine@RedRanger@the Engine I just use paper towel and simple green. Same thing I use on my shoes.I have been asleep for five million years and know not of this "green" of which you speak.Oh - you mean washing up liquid?http://www.simplegreen.com/It's an eco friendly de greaser.Only available to Former Colonials and Dominion residents as far as I can tell - is there a Scottish equivalent?Irn Bru.
@Bianchi Denti
Remember though, Irn Bru's made from girders.
@Jamie
This is one of those groups
Great article, but I dispute the bias against steel frames, the use of wax chain lube and the non-use of mudguards. Apart from that it's all good.
FYI, I've had the dubious pleasure of having to remove bottom brackets from both titanium and aluminium bikes that have corroded so solidly into the frames they need destroying to extricate - it's a complete myth that steel bikes are any worse for wet riding.
Also, I was a bit confused by the fact that you had a Campag chainset and DA left crank until I realised your photos are of three different rigs! It wasn't until my second coffee of the morning I worked that one out...
The most annoying thing is when your brake calipers get all leaf-jizzed up, and you're subjected to an endless ssssssSSSssssssSSSSssssSSSS noise as you pedal, until it finally drives you crazy enough that you stop, clean them out, only to have them clog again a few k's down the road.
@Oli
Intact paint/clear coat on a frame and an interior treatment will keep a steel frame going for quite some time, yeah? That is unless you really abuse it, but any bike will eventually fall apart if you just don't care for it.