Categories: Accessories and GearLook Pro

Look Pro: Dress for Success

A cold morning ride on Keepers Tour 2013. Photo: Brett Kennedy

I recently overheard someone say that there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing. This is the kind of statement that makes me want to hate people as a species a little bit. Of course there such a thing as bad weather. There are also bad people (loads of them), bad ideas (even bigger loads of them), bad advice (especially on the internet) and, despite what your mother told you, there certainly are stupid questions.

Despite being so clever as to render itself useless, there is a sentiment behind the claim that should be taken seriously, and that is the notion that if one is to venture out in bad weather, one should give some consideration to dressing appropriately for it. For example, I routinely see photos of Spanish Pros riding the trainer indoors in wooly hats and leggings. I would never ride indoors with leggings because the most redeeming quality of riding indoors is that you get to stare at your guns shamelessly without worry of being spotted doing so.

A Velominatus should take care to ensure they have a complete wardrobe of kit for different kinds of weather; bibs and jerseys, of course, but also arm and knee warmers, gilets, long sleeve jerseys, overshoes, gloves, caps, winter caps, knee warmers and leggings, and even jackets or rain coats depending on where you live and what kind of weather you encounter.

Always remember that the more you’re wearing, the worse you look. That’s not an opinion – that’s science. Perfection starts with bibs and a jersey, tanned guns, and a sweet set of shades. Next in line is the Flandrian Best, but after that, it’s all downhill, ending with the unfortunate invention of thermal bibs. They may be a necessity under some circumstances, just know they look complete crap, so you will too.

Still, its better than not riding, so as you’re getting ready to kit up for the day, I advise you take into account the following considerations.

Overdressing is as bad as under dressing. Getting too hot is just as miserable as being too cold, so unless you’re deliberately overdressing in order to lose weight, dress like Goldilocks, not too hot and not too cold.
Start out cold. Dress for how hard you’ll be riding that day; I like to dress such that I am chilly for the first 15 minutes of the ride because after the blood starts pumping or you hit the first hill, your core temp will rise and you’ll be perfectly dressed.
Choose layers over bulk. Layers have the advantage that they can be combined in different ways to tune their effect. For example, a jersey with arm warmers and a gilet can be as warm as a long sleeve jersey, but allow you to shed the gilet and arm warmers if you get too warm.
Windproof is more important than waterproof. If it keeps the water out, it will keep your sweat in as well, no matter what the label says about breathability. Which means you’re getting wet anyway. Windproof layers, on the other hand, will keep the wind from getting through to those wet fabrics so you can stay warm, and breathe much better than do waterproof materials. Unless its the kind of downpour that starts the animals lining up in twos, you won’t find me in a rain jacket.
No ear muffs. If your ears get cold, get a proper winter cycling cap. We’re not savages after all.

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

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View Comments

Fins says:

Feb 7 2014 at 12:34 pm

@Robert

So I wanted to ask how people handle bibs in their Flandrian Best? My bib shorts are pretty thin so should I get insulated bib shorts or add a layer underneath?

I've had some fairly terrible experiences where I was kitted out with a base layer on top and knee warmers, but just my bibs covering the area in between. Having the area from mid-thigh to your waist be the only part of your anatomy that is freezing is extremely unpleasant sensation.

I used to wear a pair of running tights under my bibs. I am pretty sure that would not fly with the rules, but they were thin enough that it was reasonably comfortable and warm.
Ron says:

Feb 7 2014 at 12:43 pm

I don't know, something about that photo makes him look like a child on a bike that is too big. The helmet? The huge feet and boney legs? Not sure.
Ron says:

Feb 7 2014 at 12:52 pm

@HMBSteve

Never worn base layers. What do you recommend, short sleeve, no sleeve?

I'm with Frank on this one. I generally prefer the sleeveless baselayers to avoid the jersey/BL sleeves not getting along.

I use three baselayers, sometimes paired together depending on the temps.

Warm/cool - Craft baselayer. I have two that are like gauzy mesh and one that is plain ol' mesh. I can't find it in stock anywhere though. Sleeveless. At this point I don't like the feeling of bib straps right on my skin. I go for small, you want it to fit very snugly. I'm 171 cm, 65 kgs, a bit thicker than cyclo-build from lots of other sports.

Cold - Just got the Icebreaker 150 g Merino wool baselayer. It's a wool t-shirt, seems like nothing, but when paired with a Craft zip neck mid layer top, it's very warm, requiring only a LS jersey even down to freezing. I used to opt for a jacket, but this year I like this pairing a lot more.

I really like baselayers. Some think they're just useless crap sold to ya by the industry. I wear mine year-round though and never ride without one. I think many of them are likely very similar, as most of the big sellers now offer them. I say find one of the mesh-y ones on sale somewhere and try that. The summer ones help, even in winter.
Ron says:

Feb 7 2014 at 12:55 pm

It also seems like no one has taken the opportunity to mention the family jewel pouch. I've seen them made for surfers for cold/chaffing protection.

I've had friends say they've doubled up bibs in really cold weather. I can't imagine the double chamois effect.

In really cold weather I'll either pair regular bibs with non-chamois tights. Or, I'll just wear some winter knickers with long wool socks or leg warmers + socks.

If it's cold enough for the nether regions to freeze, normally my feet or hands or face hurts worse.
HMBSteve says:

Feb 7 2014 at 1:03 pm

@Ron

@HMBSteve

Never worn base layers. What do you recommend, short sleeve, no sleeve?

I'm with Frank on this one. I generally prefer the sleeveless baselayers to avoid the jersey/BL sleeves not getting along.

I use three baselayers, sometimes paired together depending on the temps.

Warm/cool - Craft baselayer. I have two that are like gauzy mesh and one that is plain ol' mesh. I can't find it in stock anywhere though. Sleeveless. At this point I don't like the feeling of bib straps right on my skin. I go for small, you want it to fit very snugly. I'm 171 cm, 65 kgs, a bit thicker than cyclo-build from lots of other sports.

Cold - Just got the Icebreaker 150 g Merino wool baselayer. It's a wool t-shirt, seems like nothing, but when paired with a Craft zip neck mid layer top, it's very warm, requiring only a LS jersey even down to freezing. I used to opt for a jacket, but this year I like this pairing a lot more.

I really like baselayers. Some think they're just useless crap sold to ya by the industry. I wear mine year-round though and never ride without one. I think many of them are likely very similar, as most of the big sellers now offer them. I say find one of the mesh-y ones on sale somewhere and try that. The summer ones help, even in winter.

Thanks very much - sounds like a good plan
frank says:

Feb 7 2014 at 1:05 pm

@GogglesPizano

Speaking of looking pro .... Great pic this one. Any non-compliances? Can't see any

http://instagram.com/p/kFGTN3ILDJ/

Certainly that is a good looking kit and helmet (at least from this angle), but I'm amazed at how arched his back is.

The thing I hate the most about Cervelo (besides their tall head tube) is their move to such a high bottom bracket. He looks like he's riding a Penny-farthing.

(That's Alex from of PavÃ© Cycling Classics fame, by the way.)

@Ron

I don't know, something about that photo makes him look like a child on a bike that is too big. The helmet? The huge feet and boney legs? Not sure.

Bah, you're just jealous of us long-legged, flipper-footed folk.
Ron says:

Feb 7 2014 at 1:51 pm

Ha. I spent most of my life being jealous of you tall lads, but now that I've replaced bahlsportz with cycling, I'm happy being Medium Sized*.

He does look more normal in the full-sized photo, I was looking at the teeny one.

*Gianni confirmed 172 cms is Medium Sized just last week. I've been feelin' good since!
TommyTubolare says:

Feb 7 2014 at 2:27 pm

@frank

It is because of the longer head tube he can run a frame two sizes too small and still get his position as low as he wants. I doubt you understand this geometry concept.

That's the same reason J. Van Summeren downsized from 61 to 58. I ride old geometry in size 54 and the new in 51. The idea you have that somehow longer head tube is for people without any flexibility is wrong.

If anybody however is less flexible or require lots of spacers for a bike to fit longer head tube still looks better and improves frame's front end stiffness over a stack of spacers.
frank says:

Feb 7 2014 at 2:45 pm

@TommyTubolare

@frank

It is because of the longer head tube he can run a frame two sizes too small and still get his position as low as he wants. I doubt you understand this geometry concept.

That's the same reason J. Van Summeren downsized from 61 to 58. I ride old geometry in size 54 and the new in 51. The idea you have that somehow longer head tube is for people without any flexibility is wrong.

If anybody however is less flexible or require lots of spacers for a bike to fit longer head tube still looks better and improves frame's front end stiffness over a stack of spacers.

I understand perfectly; I understand that on the old geo I have to ride a frame two sizes too small just to get my bars low enough already.

Tall head tubes aren't for inflexible people, tall head tubes generally for recreational cyclists. My beef with the tall head tube is 100% based on the fact that I could never get enough reach out of a 58cm and the new 61cm will never be low enough for me. So it all comes down to myopic heartbreak.

My Veloforma has a 19.5cm ht vs the 22cm ht on the R5ca. Lovies.
TommyTubolare says:

Feb 7 2014 at 3:11 pm

@frank

-17 stem would put you probably 16-18 mm lower and 2 mm longer for a 61 R3/R5 comparing to your -10 stem.

Going with 58 R3 and using 140 mm -17 stem would put in the same position or very close. 3T 140 mm measures nearly 150 mm c-c so it's enough. Plus matching 3T stem to rotundo bars. I can see only benefits.

Anyway you're riding it so you know what's best for you. I just think it's more about cervelo vs veloforma rather than what fits and what not.