Normally The Keepers reserve our Reverence articles for products we’ve used for years, or with new stuff that has had at least six months of duty. Riding the cobbles of Belgium and Northern France can put most gear (and bodies) through six months of abuse in just a few weeks, so in this case the work these tyres have been put through there and in the months since qualifies them for a deserved earlier dose of Reverence.
Selecting what gear to run for the Cobbled Classics Keepers Tour wasn’t too hard a task; there are some things which just go with cobbles bikes like double wrapped bartape, alloy steerer fork and of course box section rims laced 3 cross. Tubular or clincher was about the only tough decision I had to make. I managed to find a cheap pair of Ambrosio tub rims, but as they were 36 hole it proved impossible to find a cassette hub in time for the tour. How bad could clinchers be? After all, Freddy Guesdon won Roubaix on clinchers in 97, and the Pavé boys would have spare wheels if something went terribly awry. It wasn’t the cobbles that would claim my clinchers, but the ham-fisted rock apes generously referred to by airlines as baggage handlers.
Choosing a tyre to run was probably the easiest task. It had to be Vittoria’s Open Pavé CG‘s, based on what I’d seen gracing Pro’s bikes in just about every edition of the Spring Classics I’d witnessed. The distinctive green herringbone tread stripe is as synonymous with these races as are crazed fans, beer and frites en mayo. Unfortunately the ‘Open Tubular’ doesn’t come in the 28mm width of it’s tubular brethren, but a 24mm version only. That extra mm wasn’t a lot but it was something. The real benefit of the tyres though is the 320TPI casing, yeilding a super smooth ride on any surface. Coupled with Vittoria’s Latex inner tubes, the feel of cushioning under the bike is definitely noticeable. Over all of the 21 secteurs we rode on the way to Roubaix, then another 15 of the worst a few days later, topped with a full complement of Flandrian roads, I only once feared I might hear the dreaded hiss from my tyres. Nailing an edge of a nasty cobble hard enough to feel the rock hitting the rim, the tyre bounced off and the slippery latex tube stayed intact. On return to NZ, I inspected the tyres for damage and was surprised and delighted to find nary a nick or any signs of wear.
I’ve been riding the Pavés ever since the Tour, and don’t want to swap them out at least until the Kiwi winter is over. The ride continues to impress with their sheer suppleness (dare I say souplesse?) over rough surfaces. They aren’t the lightest or fastest rolling, but neither am I. For summer I think I’ll try the lighter Corsa Evo SC‘s, which look just as cool with their tan sidewalls and are another Pro favourite. And if you’re worried about a green stripe clashing with your bike’s paint job, I think there should be a Rule #8 ammendment that the only coloured tyre allowed on any bike, due to it’s unrivalled heritage, is the venerable and now ReVered Open Pavé CG.
Thanks to Graeme at Cycle Sport NZ for his generosity in supplying the tyres and tubes.
[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/brettok@velominati.com/Open Pav/”/]
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OK guys I'll run at 110psi tomorrow and see how it feels.
Just because I have no pain when I ride and the physio is happy should I be riding? That's the next question and how much should I ride?
@Gianni
Wow. Just wow. But yes: hard to go back after switching to 25s. I haven't even contemplated a thinner tire. Smooth-rolling 25s with latex tubes. Inflated at 100psi. I'm one smooth man. All these butter references leave me a little uneasy, though...
...or, trying again, I'm Baxter smooth even without the Baxter.
@the Engine
Riding shouldn't hurt. Maybe there are larger fit problems, asymmetries? How much riding is determined by overall comfort and fitness. And why you ride in the first place. Riding likely isn't fun if it's a continual source of pain.
I've also forgotten what you're riding; a lot of cyclists pick up the stiffest frame they can, when that stiffness (first buttery, now stiffness) frequently just translates into the body absorbing more shocks and vibrations. Good if you're about all-out speed; not so much if you're looking for a more comfortable ride.
@Gianni I agree with gianni.
and he's reminded me of my favourite dirtbombs song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29-gbkpauXs
@RedRanger
I run latex, in Schwable Utremo R1s. They feel great, grip well and I haven't flatted so far (installed January). No idea what tubs feel like, but I did feel a discernable difference from the Conti Ultra Race (why "race" in a tyre soooo not for racing??) and butyl.
The roads here in Singapore are smooth as butter. Even when they do roadwork or tear up the road for construction they are careful to lay down smooth hotmix, sometimes weekly. Freaks me out after Australia where they're happy to tear up the top layer and leave the road base exposed, sometimes for months, then just leave chunky chip seal for the car traffic to press down over time.
I had read that the Schwables cut up etc etc, but I don't think I've got a single nick in them.
So - latex - I use 'em, but changed tyres at the same time. They feel good and I haven't punctured in five months, but that could be the tyres or the roads or all three combined.
Benefits of particular kinds of tubes for different surfaces? Or is latex just smoother? I've been drawn more and more to a variety of dirt roads around here and love riding them. Not horrendous, single track stuff on a road bike, but gravel and unpaved.
Just in case it's not clear, latex tubes are only worth fitting in the very best tyres - for cheaper or heavier tyres you won't feel any benefit, and you won't gain anything but expense and lack of ability to repair punctures on the side of the road.
Hey Oli, quick Q if you don't mind,
I've got a pair of 28 hole rims and hope hubs, what lacing pattern do would you recommend? 2 cross up front for sure, 3 cross both sides on the back? I want them stiff cos I want to thrash the shit out of them, weight isn't gonna be a concern.
I wanna build em myself as well, what tools do I need? Willa ghetto truing stand made out of the back end of an old bike be reliable enough?
Radial up front would be stiffer than 2 cross. At the back you could go 2 cross for added stiffness too, so long as your tensioning is sound. Otherwise 2 or 3 cross driveside/radial non-drive is a stiff wheel. Use Competition spokes or similar for added beef.
You can build a good wheel using an old frame no problem - checking the dish is as easy as flipping the wheel over. Run a string between the stays just below the rim to check up and down, and zip-ties for the side to side.