Categories: Accessories and Gear

Saddle Up- Selle SMP

SMP Dynamic

What does Selle SMP have in common with the lead up to the 2013 Tour de France? Absolutely nothing, seeing as possibly no riders are on them in the Tour. It’s a long three weeks of Tour ahead, let’s think about our own asses for a brief moment. As a disclaimer: this is not a Reverence article, yet, maybe after a few centuries and pavé parties it could be. I paid retail from a LBS for this and have no connection to SMP. I’m not even advocating anyone should get one, like I do advocate everyone owning Speedplay pedals. I am just shedding a little light on these unconventional and messed-up looking saddles.

Two years back I stared at one of these saddles on a bike whose owner was a big fella. The saddle was a thin slip of a thing, more space than saddle and it looked unridable. He made a lasting impression when he said it was great. Great? That looks highly uncomfortable, it was nearly devoid of padding and there just wasn’t much to sit on.

We all have our own limit for what we will put on our steeds but eventually a 160 km ride will sort out if form follows function. Those shoes may be the same ones Boonen wears but if they are killing your feet at 80 km, every time, they have to go.

And speaking of Specialized, they have a gizmo for measuring sit bones so one can get a good fitting saddle. I’ve owned two of their saddles and like them enough. Upon restarting long rides after my haitus this winter I re-remembered how much my lower back would hurt, especially on long climbing rides. Also while on haitus, also known as: my position must be wrong, I’ll never ride again, do I need insoles, how high should my saddle be, do I need wedges under my cleats…hell. I read up on Steve Hogg, fitting master, looking for salvation. Steve is an advocate of SMP saddles and makes the point we don’t sit on our sit bones unless on, gasp, a recumbent or bigger gasp, a Harley. Maui’s aforementioned LBS has a nice selection of test saddles, many SMPs in the mix. I went right for  the Dynamic model, for my fat ass. It took at least a week before I could even figure out where to sit on it, it’s that different a design.

There are two great things about these saddles: they have a massive cut-out section in the front so nothing gets mashed and the curved profile means one is sitting on the bones forward of the sit bones. That means your hips rotate forward, your lower back can straighten and relax. Do you want to ride the phantom aero bars while staring at your reflection in store front windows, it’s much easier with a relaxed, flatter back and uncrushed bits. I’m using that technical/medical English term to cover everything “down there”.

In summary, if your lower back is fine and you have never experienced torchmen’s taint, keep doing what you are doing. Shoes and saddles fit differently for every body. Comfort and weird looks don’t come cheap. Mine cost $230 US with steel rails but it is made in Italy, so that is a wash. They do come in celeste green if one wants to ruin the look of their Bianchi. Since one is sitting differently on it, the initial set up takes longer. It’s much harder to figure out the correct saddle height with this new position. I do think they have come up with a well researched design, especially for us riders who aim to be cyclists for the long haul.

Gianni

Gianni has left the building.

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  • @mama_mia

    My LBS put a loaner V-Flow on my bike after my recent Retul fit session where my position on the bike was drastically change. Put about 3-4 rides on it and the saddle was fine, but I was very happy to return to my SHC and discover that it was as comfortable with the new position as the V-Flow.

  • Pardon me if it has been covered, but is the clamp bolt in that fizik pillar in the front? And, does it adjust by hand? Almost looks like some of the wheels on the Cateye light and computer clasps.

    Wait, Frank. Do you have another frameset about to arrive? For a long time I wondered how you managed to only have a few bikes. Now you've got the CX rig from Cyclops, the Graveur...and another one is coming? Three in an eight month span. Thank you for making me feel alright about how many bikes I have!

    Hip flexors. Yup. Mine have been stiff as hell after four years of running on astroturf for college sports. Too much practice, not enough warm-up/cool down. I'm working on them.

  • @Joe

    I had one of those razor edge SMPs. I used it for about 3 weeks and proselytised vociferously on its merits.

    Then I trapped a nut between the rails while trying a Faboo-style easy on up with more speed number which left me a sad rumpled heap by the side of the road for a solid 20 minutes.

    It's been in a box ever since. In fact, If I can find it, I'll happily donate it to anyone in continental US for their own experimentation....

    What's in the box? The nut or the saddle? If the former, I'm not sure anyone's interested in taking it...

  • @Joe

    I had one of those razor edge SMPs. I used it for about 3 weeks and proselytised vociferously on its merits.

    Then I trapped a nut between the rails while trying a Faboo-style easy on up with more speed number which left me a sad rumpled heap by the side of the road for a solid 20 minutes.

    It's been in a box ever since. In fact, If I can find it, I'll happily donate it to anyone in continental US for their own experimentation....

    Ah, the hidden perils of nude cycling.

  • @Ron

    Pardon me if it has been covered, but is the clamp bolt in that fi'zi:k pillar in the front? And, does it adjust by hand? Almost looks like some of the wheels on the Cateye light and computer clasps.

    Mine is 2 bolt, annoyingly the rear takes a 4mm bolt with a rediculously high torque setting of 8nm (for the size of bolt) If you've got a cutout you can get an allen key at the front bolt, otherwise you have to back the rear bolt all the way off and adjust it by hand. I rounded out the rear bolt with a frickn torque wrench, FFS.

  • Goddamnit. Rounded bolts are a nightmare. I was trying to put new brake pads on a bike over the weekend. Kool Stop pad holders, I think they took a 1.5mm. I could tell they were a bit stuck, was careful, pushed the wrench in all the way...free turn. Fack. I guess I'm either buying new holders, not using them, or trying to drill the little damn things out. Drive side, front/rear came out, NDS neither holder bolt would come out.

    Sorry to read about that, minion. What a pisser that can be when the wrench gives way. A short job suddenly turns into a major pain in the arse.

  • @minion

    @Ron

    Pardon me if it has been covered, but is the clamp bolt in that fi'zi:k pillar in the front? And, does it adjust by hand? Almost looks like some of the wheels on the Cateye light and computer clasps.

    Mine is 2 bolt, annoyingly the rear takes a 4mm bolt with a rediculously high torque setting of 8nm (for the size of bolt) If you've got a cutout you can get an allen key at the front bolt, otherwise you have to back the rear bolt all the way off and adjust it by hand. I rounded out the rear bolt with a frickn torque wrench, FFS.

    Oh yes, those f'ing Italians. I nearly stripped that rear bolt with the 4mm torque wrench so now I have to guess and use an old allen wrench. I agree, too small a bolt head for the job. I bought a larger cap bolt but I don't think the head will fit into the countersink.

  • @Joe

    I trapped a nut between the rails

    About this, I'm still scratching my head (not that one).

    If you're serious, I'll pay the shipping to see if I can reproduce your results. If I can, I'll certainly post up about it. If I can't, and I want the saddle, I'll give you twenty bucks.

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Gianni

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