There was never any question in my mind that tubulars are more romantic than clinchers, and as a Velominatus I was always convinced that the additional time and care that goes into gluing on a set of tires would make you feel just that much more connected to your bike and the history of the sport itself. I was skeptical, however, that tubs would ride noticeably better – and even if they did – whether they would prove to be too much of a hassle to make riding them worthwhile.
Two and a half years after building my first set of tubular wheels and gluing on a set of handmade tires, I have eliminated clinchers from all my bikes. The ride is better, the gluing is a quick and easy process (once you learn a few tricks), and a tubular can be changed more quickly than a clincher. Plus the glue gives you a little buzz; what’s not to like?
The switch from clinchers to tubulars did require a change to my tool kit, however. This fact wasn’t immediately apparent to me and I went on several rides happily armed with tire levers and a spare inner tube. Gearing up for riding tubulars is a more subtle process than it is with clinchers, a fact which gives me no small amount of pleasure. First comes the approach to folding and carrying the spare tire, should you choose to carry one. Also, with the removal of tire levers, spare tube(s), and patch kits comes the introduction of repair sealant; in the event of a flat, the first tactic is to inject the tire with some goop and see if it seals itself, eliminating the need to replace the tire in the first place. This works splendidly in many cases, and appears to be a long-term solution as well; I have one particularly beloved tire which has been holding fast with sealant since a puncture over a year ago.
After a few iterations, my tubular-friendly survival kit has evolved into a beautifully compact system which takes up less bulk in my jersey than does the clincher version. It consists of a Lezyne Carbon Drive Lite rubber-banded to a tube of Vittoria Pit Stop and a Lezyne V5 mini tool. Nothing to it. On longer rides or rides with others, I will strap my tiny tub to my saddle as extra protection in the event the Pit Stop doesn’t work.
Tubulars ride better, corner better, are easy to mount, quick to change, give you a small buzz, and require a smaller survival kit than do clinchers. You heard it here first: friends don’t let friends ride clinchers.*
*Thanks to @Nate for coining this phrase.
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@antihero
One of my FMB's got a staple in it; it went into the rubber, hit the casing, did a 180 and came back out the rubber and got stuck there. Rode it another few KM before I figured out what the noise was. TIre didn't go flat.
@Ron
Rule 5, idiot.
Seriously, I ride Oakleys with the hydrophobic coating so just spray them with my bidon every once in a while, but sweat in the sunnies is a very annoying thing.
As for the slippery hoods, my fizik tape doesn't have the issue but the hoods do. I just deal with it.
I think that given the price point and the fact that the tool sits in my jersey pocket getting sweated on or rained on some 300-320 days a year that I'll forgive them a bit of corrosion. I do oil the hinges occasionally to keep it opening easily.
I had a Pro tool that had chromed tools and it didn't rust. But the chroming process also meant the allen tools didn't fit the bolts precisely enough making them unreliable. I'll take a light corrosion over the imprecise fit every time.
@Nate
Cool!
Here is the link:
http://www.tirealert.com/tirealert/Welcome.html
@frank
Prophylactically - the difficult part is judging when it needs replacing. You get little clumps of what someone termed Corals after a while which I take it are the strands that block the holes. I guess the bigger strands clump first (naturally) which is a bummer if you get a flint hole. Continental recently brought out a mix which is apparently more stable over time but you can't mix it with any of the existing ones as it gels with them as it is synthetic. They all seem to claim to seal holes up to 3mm which is rubbish in my experience.
Initially I did have good experience with them and small holes sealed well and long term but our roads got so bad last winter and continued this summer that I seemed to be picking up bigger flints than previously and holes were not sealing.
Ride more miles and it won't be?
@frank
I put my repair tools in a Ziploc bag or two - corrosion problem solved
@frank
These might grow on you -- no padding, just glove.
2 days ago, I ordered a new set of tubular full carbon wheels for a new bike build. So, I will take franks advice to heart, as I have ridden clinchers and tubeless for a long time. But, I was talked into it, after much discussion, by a lbs, who swears I will love them. So it goes with the truly bike addicted, and what comes around goes around as I rode sewups in the far past on race days, only. I plan on daily riding for this set. As with bikes and the n+1 rule, so go wheelsets apparently. Maybe n+2?
@Zman
I've done a conversion of my neuvation hoops from clinchers to tubeless. I use stan's sealant. In two years, I have not had a disabling flat. I did switch to 25mm intensives from the 23mm fusion 3s, and I think I'll stick with em. I run at 105psi and the ride is quite comfortable.
Although...just an hour ago, I broke a spoke, and the repair will take some work. The tyre will need to come off, and the rim tape removed to get that the spoke holes.with 1200 miles on the tyre, I think I'll replace it. It such a pain in the ass doing it, that the added 800 miles I might get out of it aint worth the effort.
@azryder
Yeah, I could buy loads of wheels, I'll tell you that. So far I only have one surplus set though (the golden tickets) which I reserve for special rides.
@eightzero
The massive bummer with recessed spoke nipples.
One ride on clinchers since this winter when I run wider tires and fenders on the CX bike, and that one was for the Cheesehead Roubaix where I wanted a bit more width than the 24mm Vittoria Paves on my Nemeses. I haven't flatted on tubulars since, oh, wait, not going there to avoid jinxing myself.
Only one set of clinchers in the quiver now; the rest (Golden Tickets, the mythical Nucleons, and Aeolus D3 3s) are tubular. @Nate's post reminds me that I really should get some Veloflexes again, but the Vittoria Corsa Elites in 25 are surprisingly nice on the Nucleons. Also thinking about getting some 27mm tubies for those rims as my uber-crap/gravel road surface wheels.
My repair kit includes the full-length pump old-school style along the NDS seatstay, and a single pre-glued spare in an Arundel Tubi bag to keep the tire clean. In the side pocket of the Tubi I have a small flat-bladed screwdriver with the sharp edges of the tip ground smooth for tire removal, and well as a Stan's valve core removal tool to make it easier to put in the small bottle of Stan's in my back pocket.
For really long rides I do have a Jannd Dual bag that holds two tubulars, but I haven't used it since riding in Colorado last summer. Having two spares plus Stan's is the ultimate belt-and-suspenders approach.