Everyone knows it’s a great idea to change out pieces of equipment the day before a group ride, especially an honorary Ronde van Vlaanderen Cogal involving steep, cobblestone climbs. There is obviously also no need to test-ride the equipment after making said change.
I remark at this point that it is rather unexpected to find an 11 speed chain inside a box labeled as being 10 speed. I also note that an 11 speed chain is not obviously narrower than its 10 speed counterpart. Once installed, it even seems to operate normally, happily jumping from one cog to the next, up and down the cassette, as you click away at it on the work stand. It gives the strong impression of being a happy chain.
This is a ruse. It is not a happy chain. In fact, it is a borderline malicious chain; it lulls the rider into a false sense of security, right until the moment that enough pressure is applied to the pedals, at which point the chain will rudely skip. The amount of pressure required to make the chain skip is dependent upon in which gear you are riding; some skip easily, some (seemingly) not at all. The ones that seemed like they didn’t skip at all were the two lowest gears. Comforting, knowing the steep cobbled climbs that were to be gobbled up towards the end of the ride, where they would be most instrumental.
As it turns out, the amount of pressure required to skip the chain is the amount applied at roughly 20% and the rider has risen out of the saddle in search of extra power. This came as quite a surprise to me, the rider, and also to those riding behind me, who used words like “ejected” and “like you hit an invisible car” to describe what they saw.
So, I can make with certainty the following observation: a 10 speed chain and 11 speed chain might not have any outward trappings of distinction between them but they are indeed very different. This difference manifests itself by one functioning as expected and the other having the capacity to eject a rider when combined with a 10 speed drivetrain. It all seems very obvious, but that doesn’t make it less true.*
There are many other examples of this I’m sure; I remember having quite a job of properly connecting my Cinelli stem to my Scott Drop-In handlebars because the diameters did not quite match. That one also resulted in some high speed handling anomalies.
There are two morals to this story. First, it matters whether your equipment is interoperable. Second, if you make a change to your gear before a big ride, for the love of Merckx, take it on a test drive.
*As it turns out, it does in fact make it less true; this should function flawlessly but it was a worn(ish) cassette that held the secret to the bikes newly discovered ejection function.
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@Eli Curt
I have Ultegra chains without connectors but if they break up, I have different connectors/magic links from KMC to get me home in the #31 sack.
@KogaLover
I just go by the shape, the teeth should have a flat top, if they are just spikes it's knackered. Having said that if you go back further they were just wheels. I seem to remember my old Campag Gran Sport were just steel wheels with no teeth.
The thing about 5/6 speed was that everything was beefier/thicker so tended to last longer. I've never managed to wear out a 5 speed block. The bearings always failed first.
@chuckp
I used to go really easy on chains too, but after Johan taught me to climb big gears out of the saddle and in the drops on steep climbs, I started wearing that stuff much more. Spinning appears to be much lighter on that stuff.
This happened on a commuter in winter once on me as well, in my case I dropped like a sack of potatoes (including a heavy pack) to the ground. Rather unpleasant, that.
@wiscot
If it doesn't come with one, I just add one. I like the Connex quick links on Campa chains.
@Eli Curt
Just take out a link and throw a connector in there. No problem.
@Teocalli
When I started my last post, yours wasn't there yet, but great minds think alike. Btw, the idea for the nitrilene gloves, did you get that from a prior article-post from me? I have 2 in the #31 sack because I do not want to ruin my white bar tape when I have a mechanical. Although I did read an interesting article on wrapping bar tape (Specialized vs Fizik) from many years ago. @frank: did the bar-wrapping competition ever take place?
@KogaLover
I wouldn't like to rob you of the seeded suggestion but as I have the things in my toolbox it seemed a sensible idea vs doing my best to clean my hands with grass from the verge. While I use black tape I do use white gloves so net effect/benefit is the same. Though The Butler has white tape - but breaking the wrought iron 5 Sp chain on that seems unlikely (that's put the mockers on that now!).
@KogaLover
Ref the jockey wheels, I tend to go by the shape of them, if at all pointy then I replace.
@frank
Ironically, I'm not really a spinner. I climb in bigger gears than most everyone else I ride with. Both in and out of the saddle. I'll be replacing my chain and cassette either during or at the end of this riding season.
@chuckp
But you are also the size of a unicorn turd. I am the size of an Orc. Might also matter.
Along the same lines as fitting new equipment for a cogal, what's the ruling on the appropriate level of equipment.
Is it Sunday-best to honour the spirit of the Velominati and look as fantastic as possible at all times... or is it training standard because well, it isn't a race and even our second-best stuff should still look fantastic?
Inquiring minds would like to know ahead of the London cogal on Saturday.
It comes down to, do I take my Hed Stinger 6s with tubs or my alloy Eurus with clinchers? Given that it's a long ride and I have to get across London first I'm inclining towards the clinchers for the repairability potential.
@ChrisO
Your call but I always go with the Sunday Best, riding the #1 even when it's raining - despite the #2 looking as Fantastic as the #1 at all (well, most) times.