Photo via F&O Forgotten Nobility

I am a road cyclist, at heart. Even when I’m in a car, I’ll daydream about riding the same road I’m driving. I’ll imagine how the tarmac might feel as my wheels carry me across it, the wind, the smells in the air. I’ll imagine how my lungs are expanding and contracting, cleansing me a little with every exhale. In my mind’s legs, I’ll feel the pressure building as I imagine myself rising out of the saddle to power over a pitch. I know I would feel the pain of such a ride, but I can’t really imagine what it would feel like. I can never really imagine pain.

The paved road is where we are the closest we will ever be to achieving flight. To restrict ourselves to tarmac, however, is to restrict ourselves to those places in this world which are most travelled. The most beautiful places do not lie at the end of such roads; they are hidden away, where those with some element of imagination might venture to look for them. A two-lane dirt track, perhaps, or a forest road that winds off beyond the damp forest and on to places unknown.

On gravel and dirt, we find a completely different sensation from that on the road. Certainly, many of the elements are still there, but the terrain demands a different kind of harmony; we dart along from one side of the road to another, looking for the best bits where the holes are smaller and the gravel is held together more. The dust or mud kicked up by our tires hovers in the air about us and covers our lips, teeth, and tongue. Suddenly, we taste the road as much as feel it.

Being away from traffic and in the wilderness awakens something primal in our spirits. The smell of damp dirt, moss, and bark or the baking scent of dry pine needles flushes the city from your senses and immediately awakens a calmer Self. My soul is at peace when I return home from such a ride.

The road is where my heart lies, but gravel is where I find my soul.

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

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  • @Weldertron

    I mentioned it in "The Rides", but the Dirty 40 is coming up in VT in a few weeks. Looks like a blast. and it's a 10$ race!

    Oh MAN!!!  This sounds AWESOME!!!  I used to road race in Derby through USCF when I was growing up.  I will have to mark this on the calendar for next year.

  • Besides the obvious fact that it is an excuse to try to complete the infinite equation of n+1, why not use your road bike with a different set of tires for graveling?

    I have a Merckx Scandium frame which I often run HED C2 Belgium rims mounted with Vittoria Pave 28 mm tubulars that have fine fork clearance. 

    Any reason that this is not an okay rig for riding gravel?   The gearing?  Seems like with a 39 up front and a wide assortment of gears on the casette it should be okay.

    I have never tried riding her on gravel but I really want to and it seems like it should work just fine.

    Of course, I would prefer to buy another bike just for gravel but curious as to your opinions on running the road bike on gravel with beefier wheels.

  • @ frank: I find myself in the same place you describe, driving roads and thinking...what must it be like

    In the ozark terrain around here however, a graveur (or graveleur?) is of necessity, in that, we have 3 category roads: a) nice roads and up kept ~10% b) crappy roads aka ozark pave', typically shit-n-seal but at least low traffic and descent otherwise ~30% c) gravel roads, which are even less traffic but there are endless possiblities that exist as they are the majority of roads here

    There are killer climbs, some >20% where your front wheel lightly bobs up and down yet then your gripping the chicken bones for all your worth on the descent before you hit a switchback, where grass grows on the road due to low to no traffic, where ghost towns use to reside and dogs don't have a clue as to who or what you are.  I will take some pics and add later when able

  • @Buck Rogers

    Besides the obvious fact that it is an excuse to try to complete the infinite equation of n+1, why not use your road bike with a different set of tires for graveling?

    I have a Merckx Scandium frame which I often run HED C2 Belgium rims mounted with Vittoria Pave 28 mm tubulars that have fine fork clearance.

    Any reason that this is not an okay rig for riding gravel? The gearing? Seems like with a 39 up front and a wide assortment of gears on the casette it should be okay.

    I have never tried riding her on gravel but I really want to and it seems like it should work just fine.

    Of course, I would prefer to buy another bike just for gravel but curious as to your opinions on running the road bike on gravel with beefier wheels.

    I think it really depends on the type of gravel surface you plan on riding.  Your bike with the 28s would do fine on hardpack dirt roads or something like crushed limestone towpaths, but you're going to want a tread with some bite on looser stuff.  That's where road bikes with standard reach brakes fail as that addition of even a modest tread to a tire can cause clearance issues.

    @Ron

    @frank

    @gregorio

    @Weldertron

    @gregorio

    Yes, definitely not romantic but I have a 'bar steel cross bike that I use as my commuter. I had the 2011 model until the ST cracked. Now I have the 2013 and it's actually a nicer bike and the ride on 28s is pretty darn smooth and nice. Crappy wheels but mine gets locked up. A nice bike for the price, especially with the 5700 105 parts. Also, if you toss on some better parts in the cockpit you can shave a bunch of weight. Added bonus for me - the dark red color is the same as the Giant Boulder that I bought with my own lawn mowing money in 7th grade.

    Despite my inclination towards beautiful bicycles, it is nice to have at least one so-so bike that I don't have to worry about banging, nicking paint, etc.

    As we've discussed I too have the 2011 Nashbar steel cyclocross bike and honestly, I think its much better suited for gravel riding than for cross seeing as that even with a handful of modest, yet weight saving upgrades (like new wheels/cockpit) the bike still weighs 24lbs in a size 58.  Its geometry isn't pure cross either - its not the most nimble bike nor is it particularly stiff, but its very comfortable to ride.  Don't get me wrong, I race cross on it (albeit not very well) and its a fine bike for the money especially if you want something to pull double duty (or even triple if you're a commuter) .

    The generic Ridley Nashbar sells is definitely a nice frame, but seeing as its a 2010 X-Night its made strictly for racing - having Ridley's standard high bottom bracket, relatively short top and head tubes, and doesn't have bottle mounts.  You can pick up a Alu/carbon forked Kona Jake the Snake for less than $500 that would be more versatile in my opinion (and has a tapered steerer and PF30 BB if you're into that kind of thing).

  • @gregorio

    @Weldertron

    @frank

    @gregorio

    @Weldertron

    @gregorio

    During the last year I've collected enough parts from upgrading my road bike to assemble a build kit. My VMH has decreed that I MUST build my gravel machine with a frame that is less than $1000 - which to my mind means steel. Anyone out there in V - Land have some ideas for a steel frame of this price point?

    Any particular reason to stay away from Alu?

    Not especially. I'm open to that possibility, but also remember the ride quality of my first steel racer 30 yrs ago. I've read about recent innovations in forming and manipulating alu that have resulted in improved ride quality. Suggestions?

    I think weight is a bigger concern than people give credit both on gravel and on CX; you're lifting your bike a lot in CX and on gravel you want it light enough to bounce over the terrain. Its not very romantic, but I've heard people actually have had great luck with the Performance brands of Carbon frames - and Nashbar does a no-brand carbon frame that is actually an unbranded Ridley. Those can be had in your price point for sure, Rule #58 notwithstanding.

    I'm still wary of carbon frames in cross for the non-sponsored rider. One trip up on a barrier and you could be looking at a broken frame. I know aluminum and steel can dent, but I think it's been proven a lateral impact to a lightweight carbon frame might have some adverse affects.

    That nashbar frame isn't a bad deal for the starter. At that price it's almost disposable.

    Found a Specialized crux alu frame with carbon fork for $990 retail. No Rule #58 headaches and no worries with tire clearance. Looks like with a set of cantilever breaks I have the parts to build her up over the winter. http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/crux/cruxe5osbbframeset Thanks for the ideas!

    Nicely done! And skip the canti's and get some TRP Mini-V's. They are a bit of a pain to set up (not like Canti's aren't!) but they actually stop the bike, which is always nice. (Make sure you get the right model for your brakes - http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185)

    @Weldertron Oh, yeah. What he said.

  • @motor city

    I've taken my maiden gravel ride tonight and I'm kicking myself that i haven't done it sooner. I live right on the edge of the South Downs National Park and 200m from my house is a bridle path into the countryside that i've never investigated. I had an amazing time, rolling hills with chalk and flint farm track and grass all on my doorstep.

    I took some photos to add to the collective gravelbone:

    That's right out your door??? JAY-SUS, man! What a sight those roads are! How many K's?

  • @scaler911

    You mean roads like this? Had the Cogal gone off as planned, this was the "graveur" chunk. Took this last night after picking huckleberries.

    Oh man, dude! You're killin' me here! We've gotta get that ride done still this year.

    @EricW

    @RedRanger I've tried it on my old 26er hardtail. Ran a rigid fork up front, and put the fattest tires I could fit on there (Conti TrailKing 2.4). Honestly, besides the hipster rad factor, it wasn't all that great. I felt very iffy on descents and couldn't get my arms wide enough on climbs, and I was using flared mountain drop bars. The only place where it was nice was on fire road but then, I have a cx bike.

    And IMO there's not a lot inherently better or worse about steel over AL or Carbone on a cx bike since the big tires give you plenty of compliance and dampening. I guess not having to worry about the frame in a crash as opposed to Carbone is kind of nice. I've found the main advantage of having a steel cx bike is that I can look at the other racers and say things that begin with "back in my day...".

    Also it makes PBR taste better.

    Jacquie Phelan did OK with it on her Cunningham named Otto.

  • @Buck Rogers

    Besides the obvious fact that it is an excuse to try to complete the infinite equation of n+1, why not use your road bike with a different set of tires for graveling?

    I have a Merckx Scandium frame which I often run HED C2 Belgium rims mounted with Vittoria Pave 28 mm tubulars that have fine fork clearance.

    Any reason that this is not an okay rig for riding gravel? The gearing? Seems like with a 39 up front and a wide assortment of gears on the casette it should be okay.

    It depends on your gravel and on your roads. Out in southern MN, the roads I used to ride were fine on a road bike, even with 25mm tires. The Almanzo gets raced on road bikes a lot. Here in the PWN, a lot of the roads I ride have quite large rocks and the gravel can be quite loose. I can hardly keep the wheels on the bus with 33mm tubs and at about 5 bar - not to mention I definitely want some knobs on the sides of the tires for cornering. I cannot imagine doing those on a road bike, and you'd peel out on the steep bits.

    Also, I'm running 38x27 and some of the steep stuff is scraping the bottom of the barrel on the gear inches, so a compact would not be a crazy addition if you're doing lots of climbing on steep forest roads.

    Gravel basically adds about 20% resistance, so keep that in mind. Except when descending, when it basically means you're riding on ball bearings.

    @Souleur

    @ frank: I find myself in the same place you describe, driving roads and thinking...what must it be like

    In the ozark terrain around here however, a Graveur (or graveleur?) is of necessity, in that, we have 3 category roads: a) nice roads and up kept ~10% b) crappy roads aka ozark pave', typically shit-n-seal but at least low traffic and descent otherwise ~30% c) gravel roads, which are even less traffic but there are endless possiblities that exist as they are the majority of roads here

    There are killer climbs, some >20% where your front wheel lightly bobs up and down yet then your gripping the chicken bones for all your worth on the descent before you hit a switchback, where grass grows on the road due to low to no traffic, where ghost towns use to reside and dogs don't have a clue as to who or what you are. I will take some pics and add later when able

    Sounds like heaven.

  • @frank

     

    Nicely done! And skip the canti's and get some TRP Mini-V's. They are a bit of a pain to set up (not like Canti's aren't!) but they actually stop the bike, which is always nice. (Make sure you get the right model for your brakes - http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185)

    @Weldertron Oh, yeah. What he said.

    +1 to this.  Mini-Vs are the way to go.  Even Ridley is spec-ing them on their entry to mid level canti-mount cross bikes this year.

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