The Rules
We are the Keepers of the Cog. In so being, we also maintain the sacred text wherein lie the simple truths of cycling etiquette known as The Rules. It is in our trust to maintain and endorse this list.
The Rules lie at the beginning of The Path to La Vie Velominatus, not at the end; learning to balance them against one another and to welcome them all into your life as a Velominatus is a never-ending struggle waged between form and function as we continue along The Path towards transcension.
See also The Prophet’s Prayer.
- // Obey The Rules.
- // Lead by example.It is forbidden for someone familiar with The Rules to knowingly assist another person to breach them.1
- // Guide the uninitiated.No matter how good you think your reason is to knowingly breach The Rules, it is never good enough.
- // It’s all about the bike. It is, absolutely, without question, unequivocally, about the bike. Anyone who says otherwise is obviously a twatwaffle.
- // Harden The Fuck Up. 2,20
- // Free your mind and your legs will follow.Your mind is your worst enemy. Do all your thinking before you start riding your bike. Once the pedals start to turn, wrap yourself in the sensations of the ride – the smell of the air, the sound of the tires, the feeling of flight as the bicycle rolls over the road.
- // Tan lines should be cultivated and kept razor sharp.Under no circumstances should one be rolling up their sleeves or shorts in an effort to somehow diminish one’s tan lines. Sleeveless jerseys are under no circumstances to be employed.
- // Saddles, bars, and tires shall be carefully matched.3Valid options are:
Match the saddle to the bars and the tires to black; or
Match the bars to the color of the frame at the top of the head tube and the saddle to the color of the frame at the top of the seat tube and the tires to the color where they come closest to the frame; or
Match the saddle and the bars to the frame decals; or
Black, black, black
- // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.Fair-weather riding is a luxury reserved for Sunday afternoons and wide boulevards. Those who ride in foul weather – be it cold, wet, or inordinately hot – are members of a special club of riders who, on the morning of a big ride, pull back the curtain to check the weather and, upon seeing rain falling from the skies, allow a wry smile to spread across their face. This is a rider who loves the work.
- // It never gets easier, you just go faster.As this famous quote by Greg LeMan tells us, training, climbing, and racing is hard. It stays hard. To put it another way, per Greg Henderson: “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.” Sur la Plaque, fucktards.4
- // Family does not come first. The bike does.Sean Kelly, being interviewed after the ’84 Amstel Gold Race, spots his wife leaning against his Citroën AX. He interrupts the interview to tell her to get off the paintwork, to which she shrugs, “In your life the car comes first, then the bike, then me.” Instinctively, he snaps back, “You got the order wrong. The bike comes first.”21
- // The correct number of bikes to own is
n+1
.While the minimum number of bikes one should own is three, the correct number isn+1
, wheren
is the number of bikes currently owned. This equation may also be re-written ass-1
, wheres
is the number of bikes owned that would result in separation from your partner. - // If you draw race number 13, turn it upside down.Paradoxically, the same mind that holds such control over the body is also woefully fragile and prone to superstitious thought. It fills easily with doubt and is distracted by ancillary details. This is why the tape must always be perfect, the machine silent, the kit spotless. And, if you draw the unlucky Number 13, turn it upside down to counter-act its negative energy.
- // Shorts should be black.Team-issue shorts should be black, with the possible exception of side-panels, which may match the rest of the team kit.
- // Black shorts should also be worn with leader’s jerseys.Black shorts, or at least standard team-kit shorts, must be worn with Championship jerseys and race leadership jerseys. Don’t over-match your kit, or accept that you will look like a douche.
- // Respect the jersey.Championship and race leader jerseys must only be worn if you’ve won the championship or led the race.
- // Team kit is for members of the team.Wearing Pro team kit is also questionable if you’re not paid to wear it. If you must fly the colors of Pro teams, all garments should match perfectly, i.e no Mapei jersey with Kelme shorts and Telekom socks.
- // Know what to wear. Don’t suffer kit confusion.No baggy shorts and jerseys while riding the road bike. No lycra when riding the mountain bike (unless racing XC). Skin suits only for cyclocross.
- // Introduce Yourself.If you deem it appropriate to join a group of riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group, wait for an invitation, introduce yourself, or let them go. The silent joiner is viewed as ill-mannered and Anti-V. Conversely, the joiner who can’t shut their cakehole is no better and should be dropped from the group at first opportunity.
- // There are only three remedies for pain.These are:
If your quads start to burn, shift forward to use your hamstrings and calves, or
If your calves or hamstrings start to burn, shift back to use your quads, or
If you feel wimpy and weak, meditate on Rule #5 and train more!
- // Cold weather gear is for cold weather.Knickers, vests, arm warmers, shoe covers, and caps beneath your helmet can all make you look like a hardman, when the weather warrants their use. If it isn’t wet or cold, save your Flandrian Best for Flemish weather.
- // Cycling caps are for cycling.Cycling caps can be worn under helmets, but never when not riding, no matter how hip you think you look. This will render one a douche, and should result in public berating or beating. The only time it is acceptable to wear a cycling cap is while directly engaged in cycling activities and while clad in cycling kit. This includes activities taking place prior to and immediately after the ride such as machine tuning and tire pumping. Also included are cafe appearances for pre-ride espressi and post-ride pub appearances for body-refueling ales (provided said pub has sunny, outdoor patio – do not stray inside a pub wearing kit or risk being ceremoniously beaten by leather-clad biker chicks). Under these conditions, having your cap skull-side tipped jauntily at a rakish angle is, one might say, de rigueur. All good things must be taken in measure, however, and as such it is critical that we let sanity and good taste prevail: as long as the first sip of the relevant caffeine or hop-based beverage is taken whilst beads of sweat, snow, or rain are still evident on one’s brow then it is legitimate for the cap to be worn. However, once all that remains in the cranial furrows is salt, it is then time to shower, throw on some suitable aprés-ride attire (a woollen Molteni Arcore training top circa ’73 comes to mind) and return to the bar, folded copy of pastel-coloured news publication in hand, ready for formal fluid replacement. It is also helpful if you are a Giant of the Road, as demonstrated here, rather than a giant douchebag. 5
- // Tuck only after reaching Escape Velocity.You may only employ the aerodynamic tuck after you have spun out your 53 x 11; the tuck is to be engaged only when your legs can no longer keep up. Your legs make you go fast, and trying to keep your fat ass out of the wind only serves to keep you from slowing down once you reach escape velocity. Thus, the tuck is only to be employed to prevent you slowing down when your legs have wrung the top end out of your block. Tucking prematurely while descending is the antithesis of Casually Deliberate. For more on riding fast downhill see Rule #64 and Rule #85.
- // Speeds and distances shall be referred to and measured in kilometers. This includes while discussing cycling in the workplace with your non-cycling coworkers, serving to further mystify our sport in the web of their Neanderthalic cognitive capabilities. As the confused expression spreads across their unibrowed faces, casually mention your shaved legs. All of cycling’s monuments are measured in the metric system and as such the English system is forbidden.
- // The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car. Or at least be relatively more expensive. Basically, if you’re putting your Huffy on your Rolls, you’re in trouble, mister. Remember what Sean said.
- // Make your bike photogenic.When photographing your bike, gussy her up properly for the camera. Some parameters are firm: valve stems at 6 o’clock. Cranks never at 90 or 180 degrees. Others are at your discretion, though the accepted practices include putting the chain on the big dog, and no bidons in the cages.
- // Shorts and socks should be like Goldilocks.Not too long and not too short. (Disclaimer: despite Sean Yates’ horrible choice in shorts length, he is a quintessential hard man of cycling and is deeply admired by the Velominati. Whereas Armstrong’s short and sock lengths are just plain wrong.) No socks is a no-no, as are those ankle-length ones that should only be worn by female tennis players.
- // Socks can be any damn colour you like.White is old school cool. Black is cool too, but were given a bad image by a Texan whose were too long. If you feel you must go colored, make sure they damn well match your kit. Tip: DeFeet Wool-E-Ators rule.
- // No European Posterior Man-Satchels.Saddle bags have no place on a road bike, and are only acceptable on mountain bikes in extreme cases.
- // No frame-mounted pumps.Either Co2 cannisters or mini-pumps should be carried in jersey pockets (See Rule #31). The only exception to this rule is to mount a Silca brand frame pump in the rear triangle of the frame, with the rear wheel skewer as the pump mount nob, as demonstrated by members of the 7-Eleven and Ariostea pro cycling teams. As such, a frame pump mounted upside-down and along the left (skewer lever side) seat stay is both old skool and Euro and thus acceptable. We restate at this time that said pump may under no circumstances be a Zefal and must be made by Silca. Said Silca pump must be fitted with a Campagnolo head. It is acceptable to gaffer-tape a mini-pump to your frame when no C02 cannisters are available and your pockets are full of spare kit and energy gels. However, the rider should expect to be stopped and questioned and may be required to empty pockets to prove there is no room in them for the pump.
- // Spare tubes, multi-tools and repair kits should be stored in jersey pockets.If absolutely necessary, in a converted bidon in a cage on bike. Or, use one of these.
- // Humps are for camels: no hydration packs.Hydration packs are never to be seen on a road rider’s body. No argument will be entered into on this. For MTB, they are cool.
- // Shave your guns.Legs are to be carefully shaved at all times. If, for some reason, your legs are to be left hairy, make sure you can dish out plenty of hurt to shaved riders, or be considered a hippie douche on your way to a Critical Mass. Whether you use a straight razor or a Bowie knife, use Baxter to keep them smooth.
- // Mountain bike shoes and pedals have their place.On a mountain bike.
- // No visors on the road.Road helmets can be worn on mountain bikes, but never the other way around. If you want shade, see Rule #22.
- // Eyewear shall be cycling specific.No Aviator shades, blueblockers, or clip-on covers for eye glasses.
- // The arms of the eyewear shall always be placed over the helmet straps.No exceptions. This is for various reasons that may or may not matter; it’s just the way it is.
- // Don’t Play Leap Frog.Train Properly: if you get passed by someone, it is nothing personal, just accept that on the day/effort/ride they were stronger than you. If you can’t deal, work harder. But don’t go playing leap frog to get in front only to be taken over again (multiple times) because you can’t keep up the pace. Especially don’t do this just because the person overtaking you is a woman. Seriously. Get over it.
- // Never ride without your eyewear.You should not make a habit of riding without eyewear, although approved extenuating circumstances include fog, overheating, and lighting condition. When not worn over the eyes, they should be neatly tucked into the vents of your helmet. If they don’t fit, buy a new helmet. In the meantime you can wear them backwards on the back of your head or carefully tuck them into your jersey pocket, making sure not to scratch them on your tools (see item 31).
- // Tires are to be mounted with the label centered over the valve stem.Pro mechanics do it because it makes it easier to find the valve. You do this because that’s the way pro mechanics do it. This will save you precious seconds while your fat ass sits on the roadside fumbling with your CO2 after a flat. It also looks better for photo opportunities. Note: This obviously only applies to clinchers as tubulars don’t give you a choice.
- // Quick-release levers are to be carefully positioned.Quick release angle on the front skewer shall be an upward angle which tightens just aft of the fork and the rear quick release shall tighten at an angle that bisects angle between the seat and chain stays. It is acceptable, however, to have the rear quick release tighten upward, just aft of the seat stay, when the construction of the frame or its dropouts will not allow the preferred positioning. For Time Trial bikes only, quick releases may be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike. This is for maximum aero effect.9
- // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.If it’s preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run, it is not called a bike race, it is called duathlon or a triathlon. Neither of which is a bike race. Also keep in mind that one should only swim in order to prevent drowning, and should only run if being chased. And even then, one should only run fast enough to prevent capture.
- // Don’t be a jackass.But if you absolutely must be a jackass, be a funny jackass. Always remember, we’re all brothers and sisters on the road.
- // Position matters.In order to find the V-Locus, a rider’s handlebars on their road bike must always be lower than their saddle. The only exception to this is if you’re revolutionizing the sport, in which case you must also be prepared to break the World Hour Record. The minimum allowable tolerance is 4cm; there is no maximum, but people may berate you if they feel you have them too low.
- // Slam your stem.A maximum stack height of 2cm is allowed below the stem and a single 5mm spacer must always – always – be stacked above. A “slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned directly on the top race of the headset.
- // Keep your bars level.Handlebars will be mounted parallel to the ground or angled slightly upward. While they may never be pointed down at all, they may be angled up slightly; allowed handlebar tilt is to be between 180 and 175 degrees with respect to the level road. The brake levers will preferably be mounted such that the end of the brake lever is even with the bottom of the bar. Modern bars, however, dictate that this may not always be possible, so tolerances are permitted within reason. Brake hoods should not approach anything near 45 degrees, as some riders with poor taste have been insisting on doing.
- // Drink Tripels, don’t ride triples.Cycling and beer are so intertwined we may never understand the full relationship. Beer is a recovery drink, an elixir for post-ride trash talking and a just plain excellent thing to pour down the neck. We train to drink so don’t fool around. Drink quality beer from real breweries. If it is brewed with rice instead of malted barley or requires a lime, you are off the path. Know your bittering units like you know your gear length. Life is short, don’t waste it on piss beer.
- // Saddles must be level and pushed back.The seating area of a saddle is to be visually level, with the base measurement made using a spirit level. Based on subtleties of saddle design and requirements of comfort, the saddle may then be pitched slightly forward or backward to reach a position that offers stability, power, and comfort. If the tilt of the saddle exceeds two degrees, you need to go get one of those saddles with springs and a thick gel pad because you are obviously a big pussy. The midpoint of the saddle as measured from tip to tail shall fall well behind and may not be positioned forward of the line made by extending the seat tube through the top of the saddle. (Also see Rule #44.)
- // Keep the rubber side down.It is completely unacceptable to intentionally turn one’s steed upside down for any reason under any circumstances. Besides the risk of scratching the saddle, levers and stem, it is unprofessional and a disgrace to your loyal steed. The risk of the bike falling over is increased, wheel removal/replacement is made more difficult and your bidons will leak. The only reason a bicycle should ever be in an upside down position is during mid-rotation while crashing. This Rule also applies to upside down saddle-mount roof bars.23
- // Facial hair is to be carefully regulated.No full beards, no moustaches. Goatees are permitted only if your name starts with “Marco” and ends with “Pantani”, or if your head is intentionally or unintentionally bald. One may never shave on the morning of an important race, as it saps your virility, and you need that to kick ass.
- // Livestrong wristbands are cockrings for your arms.While we hate cancer, isn’t it better to just donate some money and not have to advertise the fact for the next five years? You may as well get “tryhard wanker” tattooed on your forehead. Or you may well be a bogan.
- // Drink in Moderation.Bidons are to be small in size. 500-610ml maximum, no extra large vessels are to be seen on one’s machine. Two cages can be mounted, but only one bidon on rides under two hours is to be employed. Said solo bidon must be placed in the downtube cage only. You may only ride with a bidon in the rear cage if you have a front bidon, or you just handed your front bidon to a fan at the roadside and you are too busy crushing everyone to move it forward until you take your next drink. Bidons should match each other and preferably your bike and/or kit. The obvious exception is the classic Coca-Cola bidon which by default matches any bike and/or kit due to its heritage. Coca-Cola should only be consumed flat and near the end of a long ride or all-day solo breakaway on the roads of France.
- // Keep your kit clean and new.As a courtesy to those around you, your kit should always be freshly laundered, and, under no circumstances should the crackal region of your shorts be worn out or see-through.
- // No aerobars on road bikes.Aerobars or other clip-on attachments are under no circumstances to be employed on your road bike. The only exception to this is if you are competing in a mountain timetrial.
- // Earn your turns.If you are riding down a mountain, you must first have ridden up the mountain. It is forbidden to employ powered transportation simply for the cheap thrill of descending. The only exception to this is if you are doing intervals on Alpe d’Huez or the Plan de Corones and you park your car up top before doing 20 repeats of the climb.
- // Espresso or macchiato only.When wearing cycling kit and enjoying a pre or post ride coffee, it is only appropriate to drink espresso or macchiato. If the word soy/skim latte is heard to be used by a member wearing cycling apparel, then that person must be ceremonially beaten with Co2 canisters or mini pumps by others within the community.6
- // No stickers.Nobody gives a shit what causes you support, what war you’re against, what gear you buy, or what year you rode RAGBRAI. See Rule #5 and ride your bike. Decals, on the other hand, are not only permissible, but extremely Pro.
- // Support your local bike shop.Never buy bikes, parts or accessories online. Going into your local shop, asking myriad inane questions, tying up the staff’s time, then going online to buy is akin to sleeping with your best friend’s wife, then having a beer with him after. If you do purchase parts online, be prepared to mount and maintain them yourself. If you enter a shop with parts you have bought online and expect them to fit them, be prepared to be told to see your online seller for fitting and warranty help.
- // Hold your line.Ride predictably, and don’t make sudden movements. And, under no circumstances, are you to deviate from your line.
- // Ditch the washer-nut and valve-stem cap.You are not, under any circumstances, to employ the use of the washer-nut and valve-stem cap that come with your inner-tubes or tubulars. They are only supplied to meet shipping regulations. They are useless when it comes to tubes and tires.
- // Like your guns, saddles should be smooth and hard.Under no circumstances may your saddle have more than 3mm of padding. Special allowances will be made for stage racing when physical pain caused by subcutaneous cysts and the like (“saddle sores”) are present. Under those conditions, up to 5mm of padding will be allowed – it should be noted that this exception is only temporary until the condition has passed or been excised. A hardman would not change their saddle at all but instead cut a hole in it to relieve pressure on the delicate area. It is noted that if Rule #48 and/or Rule #5 is observed then any “padding” is superfluous.7
- // You shall not ride with earphones.Cycling is about getting outside and into the elements and you don’t need to be listening to Queen or Slayer in order to experience that. Immerse yourself in the rhythm and pain, not in whatever 80’s hair band you call “music”. See Rule #5 and ride your bike.8
- // Point in the direction you’re turning.Signal a left turn by pointing your left arm to the left. To signal a right turn, simply point with your right arm to the right. This one is, presumably, mostly for Americans: that right-turn signal that Americans are taught to make with your left arm elbow-out and your forearm pointing upwards was developed for motor-vehicles prior to the invention of the electric turn signal since it was rather difficult to reach from the driver-side all the way out the passenger-side window to signal a right turn. On a bicycle, however, we don’t have this limitation and it is actually quite easy to point your right arm in the direction you are turning. The American right-turn signal just makes you look like you’re waving “hello” to traffic.
- // Cornering confidence increases with time and experience.This pattern continues until it falls sharply and suddenly.
- // Maintain and respect your machine.Bicycles must adhere to the Principle of Silence and as such must be meticulously maintained. It must be cherished, and when leaning it against a wall, must be leaned carefully such that only the bars, saddle, or tires come in contact with the wall or post. This is true even when dismounting prior to collapsing after the World Championship Time Trial. No squeaks, creaks, or chain noise allowed. Only the soothing hum of your tires upon the tarmac and the rhythm of your breathing may be audible when riding. When riding the Pave, the sound of chain slap is acceptable. The Principle of Silence can be extended to say that if you are suffering such that your breathing begins to adversely affect the enjoyment of the other riders in the bunch, you are to summarily sit up and allow yourself to be dropped.10
- // No mirrors.Mirrors are allowed on your (aptly named) Surly Big Dummy or your Surly Long Haul Trucker. Not on your road steed. Not on your Mountain bike. Not on your helmet. If someone familiar with The Rules has sold you such an abomination, return the mirror and demand a refund, plus interest and damages.
- // Do your time in the wind.Nobody likes a wheel sucker. You might think you’re playing a smart tactical game by letting everyone else do the work while you sit on, but races (even Town Sign Sprints) are won through cooperation and spending time on the rivet, flogging yourself and taking risks. Riding wheels and jumping past at the end is one thing and one thing only: poor sportsmanship.
- // Rides are to be measured by quality, not quantity.Rides are to be measured by the quality of their distance and never by distance alone. For climbing rides, distances should be referred to by the amount of vertical covered; flat and rolling rides should be referred to by their distance and average speed. For example, declaring “We rode 4km” would assert that 4000m were climbed during the ride, with the distance being irrelevant. Conversely, a flat ride of 150km at 23kmh is not something that should be discussed in an open forum and Rule #5 must be reviewed at once.7
- // Cycling shoes and bicycles are made for riding.Any walking conducted while wearing cycling shoes must be strictly limited. When taking a slash or filling bidons during a 200km ride (at 38kmh, see Rule #68) one is to carefully stow one’s bicycle at the nearest point navigable by bike and walk the remaining distance. It is strictly prohibited that under any circumstances a cyclist should walk up a steep incline, with the obvious exception being when said incline is blocked by riders who crashed because you are on the Koppenberg. For clarification, see Rule #5.7
- // The purpose of competing is to win.End of. Any reference to not achieving this should be referred immediately to Rule #5.11
- // Train Properly.Know how to train properly and stick to your training plan. Ignore other cyclists with whom you are not intentionally riding. The time for being competitive is not during your training rides, but during competition.
- // Legs speak louder than words.Unless you routinely demonstrate your riding superiority and the smoothness of your Stroke, refrain from discussing your power meter, heartrate, or any other riding data. Also see Rule #74.
- // Gear and brake cables should be cut to optimum length.Cables should create a perfect arc around the headtube and, whenever possible, cross under the downtube. Right shifter cable should go to the left cable stop and vice versa.
- // V Meters or small computers only.Forego the data and ride on feel; little compares to the pleasure of riding as hard as your mind will allow. Learn to read your body, meditate on Rule #5, and learn to push yourself to your limit. Power meters, heart rate monitors and GPS are bulky, ugly and superfluous. Any cycle computer, if deemed necessary, should be simple, small, mounted on the stem and wireless.
- // Race numbers are for races.Remove it from your frame before the next training ride because no matter how cool you think it looks, it does not look cool. Unless you are in a race. In which case it looks cool.
- // Helmets are to be hung from your stem.When not worn, helmets are to be clipped to the stem and draped over your handlebars thusly.
- // Respect the earth; don’t litter.Cycling is not an excuse to litter. Do not throw your empty gel packets, energy bar wrappers or punctured tubes on the road or in the bush. Stuff em in your jersey pockets, and repair that tube when you get home.12
- // Remove unnecessary gear.When racing in a criterium of 60 minutes or less the second (unused) water bottle cage must be removed in order to preserve the aesthetic of the racing machine.13
- // Fight for your town lines.Town lines must be contested or at least faked if you’re not in to it or too shagged to do anything but pedal the bike.
- // Always be Casually Deliberate.Waiting for others pre-ride or at the start line pre-race, you must be tranquilo, resting on your top tube thusly. This may be extended to any time one is aboard the bike, but not riding it, such as at stop lights.15
- // Don’t talk it up.Rides and crashes may only be discussed and recounted in detail when the rider required external assistance in recovery or recuperation. Otherwise refer to Rule #5.
- // Close the gap.Whilst riding in cold and/or Rule #9 conditions replete with arm warmers, under no circumstances is there to be any exposed skin between the hems of your kit and the hems of your arm warmers. If this occurs, you either need to wear a kit that fits you properly or increase the size of your guns. Arm warmers may, however, be shoved to the wrists in Five and Dime scenarios, particularly those involving Rule #9 conditions. The No-Gap Principle also applies to knee and leg warmers with the variation that these are under no circumstances to be scrunched down around the ankles; Merckx have mercy on whomever is caught in such a sad, sorry state. It is important to note that while one can wear arm warmers without wearing knee or leg warmers, one cannot wear knee or leg warmers without wearing arm warmers (or a long sleeve jersey). It is completely inappropriate to have uncovered arms, while covering the knees, with the exception of brief periods of time when the arm warmers may be shoved to the wrists while going uphill in a Five and Dime situation. If the weather changes and one must remove a layer, the knee/leg coverings must go before the arm coverings. If that means that said rider must take off his knee or leg warmers while racing, then this is a skill he must be accomplished in. The single exception would be before an event in which someone plans on wearing neither arm or leg warmers while racing, but would like to keep the legs warm before the event starts; though wearing a long sleeve jersey over the racing kit at this time is also advised. One must not forget to remove said leg warmers. 16
- // Be self-sufficient.Unless you are followed by a team car, you will repair your own punctures. You will do so expediently, employing your own skills, using your own equipment, and without complaining that your expensive tyres are too tight for your puny thumbs to fit over your expensive rim. The fate of a rider who has failed to equip himself pursuant to Rule #31, or who knows not how to use said equipment, shall be determined at the discretion of any accompanying or approaching rider in accordance with Rule #84.17
- // Follow the Code.Consistently with The Code Of The Domestique, the announcement of a flat tyre in a training ride entitles – but does not oblige – all riders then present in the bunch to cease riding without fear of being labelled Pussies. All stopped riders are thereupon entitled – but not obliged – to lend assistance, instruction and/or stringent criticism of the tyre mender’s technique. The duration of a Rule #84 stop is entirely discretionary, but is generally inversely proportional to the duration of the remaining time available for post-ride espresso.17
- // Descend like a Pro.All descents shall be undertaken at speeds commonly regarded as “ludicrous” or “insane” by those less talented. In addition all corners will be traversed in an outside-inside-outside trajectory, with the outer leg extended and the inner leg canted appropriately (but not too far as to replicate a motorcycle racer, for you are not one), to assist in balance and creation of an appealing aesthetic. Brakes are generally not to be employed, but if absolutely necessary, only just prior to the corner. Also see Rule #64.18
- // Don’t half-wheel.Never half-wheel your riding partners; it’s terrible form – it is always the other guy who sets the pace. Unless, of course, you are on the rivet, in which case it’s an excellent intimidation technique.22
- // The Ride Starts on Time. No exceptions.The upside of always leaving on time is considerable. Others will be late exactly once. You signal that the sanctity of this ride, like all rides, is not something with which you should muck. You demonstrate, not with words but with actions, your commitment. As a bonus, you make more time for post-ride espresso. “On Time”, of course, is taken to mean at V past the hour or half hour.
- // Don’t surge.When rolling onto the front to take your turn in the wind, see Rule #67, do not suddenly lift the pace unless trying to establish a break. The key to maintaining a high average speed is to work with your companions and allow no gaps to form in the line. It is permissible to lift the pace gradually and if this results in people being dropped then they have been ridden off your wheel and are of no use to the bunch anyway. If you are behind someone who jumps on the pedals when they hit the front do not reprimand the offender with cries of ‘Don’t Surge’ unless the offender is a Frenchman named Serge.
- // Pronounce it Correctly.All races shall be referred to by the name given in its country of origin, and care shall be taken to pronounce the name as well as possible. For Belgian Races, it is preferable to choose the name given in its region of origin, though it is at the speaker’s discretion to use either the Flemish or Wallonian pronunciation. This principle shall also be extended to apply to riders’ names, bicycle and component marquees, and cycling accoutrements.
- // Never Get Out of the Big Ring.If it gets steeper, just push harder on the pedals. When pressed on the matter, the Apostle Johan Museeuw simply replied, “Yes, why would you slow down?” It is, of course, acceptable to momentarily shift into the inner ring when scaling the 20% ramps of the Kapelmuur.
- // No Food On Training Rides Under Four Hours.This one also comes from the Apostle, Johan Museeuw, who said to @frank: “Yes, no food on rides under four hours. You need to lose some weight.” Or, as Fignon put it, sometimes, when we train, we simply have to go out to meet the Man with the Hammer. The exception is, of course, hard rides over two hours and races. Also, if you’re planning on being out for more than four hours, start eating before you get hungry. This also applies to energy drink supplements.
- // No Sprinting From the HoodsThe only exception is riders whose name starts with Guiseppe and ends with Saronni. See the Goodwood Worlds in 82.24
- // Descents are not for recovery. Recovery Ales are for RecoveryDescents are meant to be as hard and demanding as – and much more dangerous than – the climbs. Climb hard, descend to close a gap or open one. Descents should hurt, not be a time for recovery. Recovery is designated only for the pub and for shit-talking.25
- // Use the correct tool for the job, and use the tool correctly.Bicycle maintenance is an art; tools are designed to serve specific purposes, and it is essential that the Velominatus learns to use each tool properly when working on their loyal machine.
- // Never lift your bike over your head.Under no circumstances is it acceptable to raise one’s machine above your head. The only exception is when placing it onto a car’s roof-rack.
Posts related to The Rules may be found here.
Submit your suggestions in the posts, or via email here.
Credits
2 Stijn Devolder on Rule #5, in defense of staying in Belgium when his teammates went off to train in sunny Spain: “It is not so cold that you freeze on to your bike. You go from a temperature of zero (Celsius) to minus one and you’re not dead; It hardens your character.”
3 It is possible for experts to mix these matching guidelines successfully without breaking The Rules. This is a very risky undertaking and can yield unpredictable results. Proceed carefully and, if in doubt, run your configuration by the Keepers for approval.
4 Famous quote by Greg LeMond, hardman and American Cycling legend. Greg Henderson quote courtesy of Neil. (Incidentally, it does not matter how fast you go, but you may never give up.)
5 Thanks to James for his sound input on modifying this submission from it’s original draft which read, “An exception to wearing a cap when not riding is: If you have a soigneur (you don’t) and he places the cap on your head after you’ve just won a mountain top finish or soloed into the velodrome (you haven’t).”
6 Thanks to Rob for this submission.
7 Thanks to Rob (different from Rob in 6) for this submission.
8 Thanks to Saul at Speedy Reedy for this submission.
9 Thanks to BarryRoubaix for the astute observation regarding Time Trial Bikes.
10Thanks to Souleur for the astute observation regarding the Principle of Silence.
11 Thanks to Charlie for this addition.
12 Thanks to Jarvis and Steampunk for their tidy ways.
13 Thanks to Cyclops for this sensibly aesthetic addition.
15 Thanks to SupermanSam via our friends at CyclingTipsBlog.
16 Thanks to Rusty Tool Shed and Reid Beloni for assistance in helping craft the language of this Rule.
17 Thanks to Karim for this most accurate contribution.
18 Thanks to SterlingMatt for this most accurate contribution.
21 There are variants of this story, including one which is more likely to be the actual way this story unfolded, which goes that Sean Kelly is met by his wife after a the ’84 Amstel Gold Race and they get in his Citroen AX: “Ah, Sean” says his beloved wife, “in your life the car comes first, then the bike, then me.” “You got the order wrong,” Kelly scowls, “the bike comes first.” Thanks to Oli Brooke-White for helping sort out the details of the story.
22 Thanks to David Ezzy for this excellent contribution and fantastic ride out to Kaupo and back.
23 Thanks to Donnie Bugno for this most accurate contribution.
24 Thanks to Robert Millar – yes the Robert Millar for filling this most glaring omission.
25 Thanks to @urbanwhitetrash for the submission.
Whoah, going rule crazy these days. I like it. Couple things:
A. I don’t fully understand the spacer above the stem. Is there a mechanical benefit of some kind because I don’t see it? I know it looks cool but I’m not bought in. I may have to break this rule. My big phatty FSA carbone stem looks elegant without the spacer on top.
B. Since the Rules is getting to be a long list it may be time to clean it up. I’d suggest adding another list of terms. Rules #30 and #34 would apply.
@Marko
Regarding A: Having the steerer tube extend slightly above the top of the stem allows the stem to have a better grip on the fork, reducing stresses and the likelihood of damaging or breaking the steerer. Of course, this is particularly important for carbon steerers, but still applies to aluminum and steel steerers.
Regarding B: Yeah, we’ll probably have to look at condensing etc. Thanks for the suggestion.
Being accountable here: I am out of compliance with 22, 38, and kind of 35. All of which I will work to rememedy.
35 remedied.
@Marko
38 I mean. I’ve always been compliant with 35, that would have been embarrassing. However, the mounting instructions and the design of the k-wing do not facilitate compliance this rule.
@Marko
Let me ask you this: what’s more important, so-called “mounting instructions” or “The Rules”?
Besides, your comment almost makes it sounds like you read the instructions. I, on the other hand, am not a sissy and as such never, ever, read the instructions. (A side effect of this is that I also don’t know how to use a bunch of my stuff, but some things just can’t be helped.)
@frank
Ha! I’m only reading them really for torque specs on carbon fiber components and just happened to see the diagram. I know, it’s like reading playboy for the articles. Besides, I gotta use that cool spin doctor torque wrench someone paid $80 for a gift for me. I’m resisting jokes about “mounting instructions” and well, your mom.
@Marko
…aw jeeeeze…
Rule #40: The saddle must be completely horizontal determined by the use of a spirit level. There are no exceptions and if this is not possible then you need to keep shopping for saddles.
@Marko
While true in principle, actual saddle positioning is highly subjective and crucially important. This is also dependent on what saddle you ride, not to mention it’s shape. An Arione, for example, is nearly flat from tip to tail, so this is easy to accomplish. However, a Flite is a sway-backed saddle and as such “level” from tip to tail might result in unlevel portions where the boys come to rest. Further, a saddle like a Concor sweeps up in the rear and would render a level saddle position nearly impossible, or very uncomfortable. That said, a saddle tilted forward renders you a ninny; tilted backward, a masochist.
I would modify the rule as follows:
The seating area of a saddle is to be visually level, with the base measurement made using a spirit level. Based on subtleties of saddle design and requirements of comfort, the saddle may then be pitched slightly forward or backward to reach a position that offers stability, power, and comfort. If the tilt of the saddle exceeds two degrees, you need to go get one of those saddles with springs and a thick gel pad because you are obviously a big pussy.
Thoughts?
@Marko
On the subject of saddle rules:
Rule #41: The midpoint of the saddle as measured from tip to tail shall fall well behind and may not be positioned forward of the line made by extending the seat tube through the top of the saddle. (Also see Rule #33.)
As if Pharmstrong wasn’t a big enough Douche already, here he is, shamelessly breaking the Rules:
@frank
agreed on all points.
Added.
@brett
Rule #22: SHIT.
Oh no! Facial hair rule? I’m always unshaven, sometimes have an intentional dodgy mo, and more often than not sport a goatee (usually paired with a 3 day growth and/or sideburns of some persuasion). But… if I run the goatee in conjunction with a shaven, balding head, does that not bring into play the “Pirate clause”?
@brett
There is indeed a “Pirate Clause”. You automatically qualify when the #1 commentator on the site directly gives you “Pirate Cred”. “Unsaven” is also a loophole itself as it’s not technically a beard.
I’m not sure what a “dodgy mo” is, but it sounds like you might have to Harden the Fuck Up.
@brett
This is a very interesting look. I’m not sure if it adds balance to the sun glasses, the helmet cover, or the argyle. Perhaps a jersey that advertises “Mustache Rides: $1” would be appropriate. And those sunglasses are more a state trooper look than anything. Maybe special forces.
I’m just gonna say right now, I am a flagarant breaker of the beard rule. Right now, I’m sporting a big-thick-northern-harden-the-fuck-up-beard. Of course I’m not really doing any cycling right now except on the rollers and I shave it off in the summer so I think I’m safe and in compliance. Beards are bad-ass in the winter when they ice up during a 10 degree ski. But that’s a rule for another blog and another sport.
@Marko
Yeah, these rules don’t apply to skiing, that’s for sure. Or for anyone who lives 3 kms from Magnetic North.
And for the record, Zabriskie is a habitual breaker of every Rule, cycling or otherwise. He fell off his bike in the Yellow Jersey. He has fucking life-size Marvel Comic statues. I’m not knocking the guy, but when the Laws of Physics don’t apply to you, neither do The Rules.
@frank
I’m not knocking him either. I think he’s cool. He’s funny as hell and fun to watch ride. And yeah, his brief foray into yellow in 05 (?) was interesting to say the least, crashing into barriers and all.
Rule #47 about brake lever position doesn’t make any sense. What about different degrees of distance to the drops? On a “compact” bar this might work, but on the deeper drop bar that I use, applying this rule would set my lever hoods halfway down the bend in an unusable and ridiculous looking position. It often works out that the bottom of the lever sits between 1-5cm above the bottom of the bar for an acceptable lever position.
@Josh
While I concede that perhaps the “no tolerances permitted” is a bit harsh, we here at the Velominati strive for “harsh but fair”.
I use deep drop bars as well and remedy this problem by tilting the bars back (but be careful, see Rule #45). It’s possible that if you’re riding stubby little brakes like SRAM’s double-tap levers, perhaps you would find yourself outside these tolerances (but I would just argue that you shouldn’t use SRAM).
In reading the rule, however, I see that it is hopelessly vague, as it doesn’t specify what is meant by “the bottom of the bar”. If you assume the bottom is the the extension of the bar, then it still doesn’t specify if it needs to be level with the top or bottom of the tube.
I suppose that so long as the bottom of the lever breaks the plane of the extensions of the drop that you are still OK. I think that gives you roughly a 1cm tolerance.
Rule #45, surely someone has hacked in and overwritten this.
It should read:
No stem spacers permitted. Ever.
@szegerely
While we’re at it, lets just outlaw stems wholesale and just go back to mounting our handlebars right on the fork!
Referencing big Stijn in Rule #5, worth updating to include his epic battle (and subsequent defeat) at the hands of a flying wheelie bin in the recent Kuurne-Brussels-Kuurne?
Upon further reflection, I must take issue with Rule #51. I think Livestrong wristbands (although I do not wear one and have never owned one) do have a place in the cancer and cancer survivor community. I think it’s hard to underestimate the positive impact the Livestrong foundation has had in the world of cancer and farbeit from me to label a bald-headed 12-year old with Luekemia or my 62 year old mom (an 8-year breast cancer survivor) a wanker. In fact I must admit, my love for cycling and unwavering support for my mom has tempted me to get a yellow wristband, long before Rule #51 ever existed. So I move to discuss an edit for this rule.
@Marko
Under discussion, you make some good points. In the meantime, see Rule #5, just to be safe.
@Marko
You raise excellent points, but after careful deliberation, we have decided to leave Rule #51 as-is.
Cancer is a horrible disease, we support it’s research, and our sympathies are with anyone who is touched by it. Your mother is a badass and I don’t even want to broach the topic of those poor kids with Leukemia. My first-class lady worked on the pediatric bone-marrow transplant unit and I can make the world’s biggest understatement by saying that’s one of the most horrendous things for a child to go through.
Our distaste for the Livestrong bands has nothing to do with the cause that it supposedly supports (how much LAF actaully does for cancer and how ethical the organization is are debatable) or the terrible fight that those with the disease face, but more with Armstrong pretending his return has something to do with fighting cancer and not his ego, as well as the wristband’s status as #1 Fratboy Wrist Accessory. The vast majority of people wearing the bands wear it because it’s cool and are more worried about the status of their bong water than what the little yellow band signifies.
We say make a donation, buy a band, but leave it at home. And to cancer we say, “fuck off, you’re an asshole”.
Rules …rules..rules!! hmmmm checking my brake levers..again! breaking out winter kit! overboots! woolen leg warmers! de feet Woolen arm warmers and sox. . .Roubaix tights, under vest, over vest, rain coat, fitting mud guards, hats with holes in! gloves without holes in them. . fitting bigger tyres! , polishing my Turbo saddle! ha .. F
@Freditor
This whole “world away” thing has got my head spinning. Over here, we’re just packing that stuff away. But, on the plus side, you have have 6 months of automatic hardman status to look forward to!
You see, this is why nobody likes roadies…when you guys get tired of faffing over looks and brands and (ugh!) shaving…you can join the real man’s club; mountain biking where it doesn’t matter what you are wearing or if your bars match the saddle, but rather weather you can keep the rubber side down.
It’s not about the bike, it’s about the ride!
Harry, as you should know, “a man’s gotta know his limitations”. Yours, besides basic grammar and spelling, are the ability to spot self-deprecating humour and not to take everything you read as Gospel.
While The Rules have a lot of merit, and most are advisable to adhere to, we don’t really give a flying fuck if any of our readers take heed of them or not. We love to ride bikes, be it mountain, road, cross, singlespeeds (shit, even fixies!), and love to see anyone, of any creed, colour or sex on a bike. The guy riding home from work in his overalls on an old shitter will still get a nod and a wave of solidarity from us.
Personally, I consider myself a mountain biker who also rides the road, but above all I’m a cyclist. When people such as yourself spout divisionist drivel like “nobody likes roadies” and “the real man’s (sic) club”, it only serves to reinforce the notion that somehow riding one type of bike is in some way superior to others. (Oh, aren’t women allowed to mountain bike too, or is it “real men” only? A large quota of my mountain biking friends are women… fast, cool women. But hey, you hang out with your boys if that’s how you roll.)
I count among my friends, colleagues and riding buddies some of the best mountain bikers in NZ, Australia and even the USA. And guess what? They ALL ride road bikes too.
Yep, it is about the ride, and it is about the bike, and it is about having fun and not taking life too seriously. Enjoy life, have a look and a laugh at yourself and ride your fucking bike, because that’s what we love to do here at the Velominati.
Go ahead, make your day…
@brett
Just so long as they’re not aboard a recumbent.
@Dirty Harry
I’m guessing another of your limitations might be chronic failure to Obey Rule #5. Best go refresh on that one.
@ Dirty Harry
If I wanted you to like me I would have tied a pink ribbon around your frame pump and fellated you with it. Your loss.
The sad thing is if you do not see the sublime beauty in the rules you probably do not see it in road riding…
How are we standing on frame materials/manufacturers these days? I’m struggling to see how Carbon and Aluminium fluid-formed jiggery-pokery can be allowed to sit comfortably alongside these rules.
@Jarvis
This is a most excellent observation, cheers on that. There is a part of me that wants to answer your question with a quick, terse response. Something like: “Steel. Lugged. Italian or Belgian. De Rosa, Colnago, Gios, Bianchi, Merckx. And no brake cables under the tape, laddie. They should always spring upwards from the break lever, directly to the frame. And toe clips and hairnets.”
But that is to ignore the amazing progress that the technology in our sport has made in recent years (and yes, carbon and 10 speed group sets are progress). While deeply traditional, our sport is also fiercely modern and it would be reckless to ignore the advancements of late.
I say carbon, titanium, steel, aluminum; they are all materials with merit. But all bicycle frames and components must be made with love and care; with a person’s hands being involved in much if not all of the process. And, the lovely thing about Rule #12 is that we can experiment with the different options to our heart’s (and wallets) content. But indeed, the “fluid-formed jiggery-pokery” is a frightening trend and if all bike start being built in Taiwan, I will, in fact, move back to 80’s-era bikes and parts.
But at the end of the day, we should just Harden the Fuck Up, throw a leg over whatever bike we can get our hands on, and get on with our ride.
What if you work at a bike shop in regards to Rule #22?
I think that a cycling cap is perfectly fine if you are at work, at a bike shop. Not on lunch, or before or after, but while you are there in the store.
The man has a point, but some how it doesn’t sound right to me? Needs adjudication from those that know. John boy you awake?
@Colin
Mate, this is the most conversial Rule on the books. The conditions under which a cycling cap may be worn is a classic case of “I know a Rule Breaker when I see one.” Let me show you what I mean.
An example of, “Yup. That’s OK”:
And, an example of “No way, Jose”:
So lets get into a technical evaluation of the this matter. Rule #22 stipulates:
While you’re obviously engaged in cycling activities, the tricky bit here is that it also says you have to be wearing cycling kit, which I’m guessing you’re not wearing while working at the shop, unless you like putting your package on display for the lady patrons of the shop (if that’s the case, cheers on you).
My personal feeling is you’re OK wearing the cap under the conditions you describe. You wouldn’t happen to be sporting a woolen Molteni jersey while working in the shop, would you? Because that would pretty much seal the deal.
@Colin
35 words for you my friend…
Can I suggest an amendment to Rule #41. That quick releases can be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike ONLY on Time Trial bikes. This is for maximum aero effect
@Barry Roubaix
Indeed this is an excellent point. Rule amended. Thanks, mate!
Okay, so it seems pretty split down the middle for whether or not to wear it. It just seems so appropriate. Especially if the employee was wearing that particular shops cap.
Note: I am not talking some willy nilly Hipster Track bike shop employee (see Franks second picture). I’m talking the down to earth bike shop. The kind where the owner is a million years old and there is an eclectic mix of staff, and in the back shop they’re those mechanics who have an incredibly messy bench, with piles on piles of stuff, but if asked were that old shimano 600 rear der. was they could reach in and grab it.
you know, a real bike shop.
Oh, ok then…
I hates to throw cold water on good debate but there are so many “poseurs” in bike shops – wanabe race types that wear the cap to show how cool/connected they are. How do we separate them from the true old guy/ex-Belgian kermesse rider émigré running the quintessential shop Colin seems to be talking about?
The former should NOT be allowed, the latter has every right, in fact it would be sad not to see him in that old greasy Molteni cap.