Categories: La Vie Velominatus

La Vie Velominatus: Cable Obsession

Cable organization perfection: resistance is futile.

I’m fluent in three languages: Dutch, English, and Hyperbole. The third is an acquired talent developed by creative and narcissistic tendencies; the narcissism feeds a belief that normal words can’t properly describe the magnitude of my experiences, and the creativity struggles to cope with restrictive paradigms like “facts” and “reality”. I have also been diagnosed with obsessive-compulsive disorder which, when taken with everything else, suggests that my darling partner exhibits some questionable judgement.

I have a visceral response to clutter; when I see things out of order, my insides turn about themselves and cause me physical discomfort. If the clutter escalates to becoming a “mess”, my mood changes and I become irritable. This applies to everything from our house, my workshop, my office, desk space, my computer desktop, my briefcase, and my bicycles’ cable organization. I don’t have to tell you that the last one is the only one that really matters.

The tidiness of the cables on a bicycle are one of several key factors that elevate the Velominatus above the Common Cyclist. The old style of STI shifters and their protruding cables were barbaric; they represented a principle reason for my dislike of Shimano’s system. Campagnolo took a few extra years to produce the Ergo shifters, and I am quite convinced they spent that extra time sorting out how to internally route the cables.

The organization of a rider’s cables and the length to which they are trimmed is a critical detail to which we must all pay close attention. No matter how beautiful the bike, disheveled cables will always bring it down. I hereby give you the V Principles of Cable Routing:

  1. It is of paramount importance that the housing exit the bar tape at precisely opposite points on the bars. This extends beyond the cables taken in aggregate, and applies to both the brake and shift housing meaning that if they are routed together, the brake cable must always be below the shift cable, and if they are route front/back on the bars, they must both be routed in the same fashion.
  2. The housing must be organized such that they mimic and mirror each other’s curves to the maximum capability of the frame and application. This is to say that housing intersections and contact points must be minimized and under no circumstances may a shift-brake cable pair be split by another cable running from its mirrored set.
  3. Cable housing must be cut to the shortest length possible while still allowing full movement of the handlebars. It must, however, be cut long enough to allow that the cables run in a smooth curve at all points, minimizing friction. The shift cables should be cut such that they overlap only slightly; the ideal is that they just kiss each other at the apex of their arch to the frame.
  4. Inner cables must be cut to a length not exceeding 2cm. The ideal length is 1.5 times the length of the cable end.
  5. Cable ends will always be crimped using a crimping tool. Extra points awarded for a diagonal double-crimp. Under no circumstances are frayed cables to be tolerated.

Go with Merckx, and do not violate these principles. Vive la Vie Velominatus.

[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/Cables/”/]

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

View Comments

  • Fill me in...new TRP CX8.4 brakes. Around the little flip-flop pivot piece where the cable guide pipe enters the brake is a small rubber donut/clasp.

    I don't know what this is, what function it serves, or where it goes. My only idea is that it somehow keeps the cable guide pipe attached/in that black pivot piece.

    Ideas? Use it? Or, is this just something they ship with?

  • @Ron

    It goes here:

    I don't use it, but most people do. I may end up putting mine on; they are supposed to keep dirt from crawling up the noodle, but I'm skeptical of how much dirt normally crawls up noodles and how much that would matter.

  • @Ron It's lavender paint on the tubes with a top coat of blue tinted pearl.  It never looks the same in different light. Unfortunately, there's no way for the painter to mix a touch batch and I've already scraped the chainstay.

  • @frank

    @Ron

    It goes here:

    I don't use it, but most people do. I may end up putting mine on; they are supposed to keep dirt from crawling up the noodle, but I'm skeptical of how much dirt normally crawls up noodles and how much that would matter.

    Okay, so that looks like the sleeve rubber thingy. I have that on there. This is a rubber donut, almost like a rubber band for braces (never had 'em!) that was on the left side of that TRP-labeled flip-flop thing. I don't know if it serves a purpose of holding the noodle in the flip-flop arm or if it was for shipping purposes only.

    In this photo, aren't the brake pad holders backwards? Shouldn't the little screw that holds the pad in the holder be at the rear of the brake, not the front?

  • @Ron

    Thats a rear brake pictured, not a front. No clue what donut you're talking about, mate. Probably nothing.

  • @brett

    @frank

    @brett

    Honestly, I could give two shits if you put them in front or behind - its a matter of preference and what works best for your setup.

    Just don't split the pairs up like a barbarian.

    So, your concluding sentence "do not violate these principles" (and therefore the whole article) is moot then?

    Anyway, finally got around to re-cabling and taping after two years because of this discussion... so it's achieved something.

    2 / 2
    Slideshow:
    Fullscreen:
    Download:

    2 years and yet you couldn't be arsed enduring that the distance from stem to start of bartape was uniform on both sides. ;)

    may I also humbly suggest that where frame protector pads are used, that the cable should biset them evenly when viewed side-on.

  • Ah, a rear brake, why didn't I think of that? Hmm.

    Okay, so now a new question about those TRP brakes. Where the cable goes into the barrel adjuster on the noodle, Frank/others - are you using a regular ol' housing ferrule or do I spy in the photo of the rear brake housing a "stepped" ferrule, meaning one of the types that normally go into the RD cable stop where the housing starts before heading to the RD?

    I used just a regular ferrule but did notice it didn't go into the barrel adjuster very far.

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