Frame Job

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• @frank All my bikes are 57-57.5mm TTs.  The bikes with the longer wheelbase give a fantastic, intuitive ride.  In contrast I feel like I am perched on top of the one with the shorter wheelbase, and the bike flops over from side to side in an unpredictable way.  The difference is probably less than a cm.

  At some point I found and read a copy of the CONI manual section on frame design and it was quite interesting.

• @klassman

  A smaller frame with longer stem instead of top tube may provide some additional control "” at race speed "” when doing a monster descent. In essence, these guys are turning themselves into pinballs and whipping themselves through the corners and the fewer centimeters extended into the void, the better.

  I noticed this going from my 58cm TT Colnago to a 56cm TT 3Rensho.  Combined with the steep ST and a little less trail, I find myself barely needing to brake on hairpins that the Colnago would push wide on.

• An interesting piece. Sees s Cav's gone down a frame size too.  He now rides a smaller frame size than Mrs @936ADL.

  To me it just underlines the fact that the needs of the pros are very different to your average  Velominatus.

• @Nate

  @frank All my bikes are 57-57.5mm TTs. The bikes with the longer wheelbase give a fantastic, intuitive ride. In contrast I feel like I am perched on top of the one with the shorter wheelbase, and the bike flops over from side to side in an unpredictable way. The difference is probably less than a cm.

  At some point I found and read a copy of the CONI manual section on frame design and it was quite interesting.

  I have some crit racing friends who ride teeny tiny bikes for the exact reason you're talking about.

  I wonder if the bike size choice doesn't also have something to do with riding style.  Some people like to turn "from the hips" while others tend to lead with the bars.  In my experience, smaller bikes lend themselves more naturally to the former style of riding.

• @frank

  From Greg LeMond's Complete Book of Cycling

  Bugger off! What, you are going to end all discussions by quoting from LeMan's book? I say foul! Since when is being informed part of the spirit of things around here?

• @norm Thanks Norm, I was spelling it both ways but now fixed. Thanks.

• @TommyTubolare

  Go for the smallest frame that fits you because it is lighter, stiffer and handles better. To be honest there was a few interesting articles I wanted to send you recently as far as fitting is concerned but you'd have to forward me your mail if you want of course. Your recent photos with a cigarette on a bike - I thought your bike was too big and too long and ready to escape from under you. You need to keep the frame more under you e.g. under control. Try to test ride smaller bike and see how you feel. It's all about the feeling.

  Cool, thanks for your informed input on the Gilbert BMC and my own position. N+1 my friend. I'll send you my velominati email address so you can forward me any useful frame information. My previous bike, my Merlin was a 63cm frame, obviously too big so the Serotta seemed an improvement, which it is. But if mini-phinney is on a 58cm frame and he is larger than I am, I should go smaller. 

• @EBruner

  I really don't understand todays bike fitting myself, but I guess I go along. I am 5'10"³ and I ride a 52 sloping C59, and a 56cm master X-light. The C59 looks like a kiddy frame next to my master, but it may be the 1984 filter I see it through. I do have to say the c59 doesn't feel small riding it, it is just how they look side by side.

  Colnago has a tricky (confusing Italian) size chart for their sloping frames too. They have confused a few people with it. I bet your C59 effective top tube length is closer to your Master's. Yes, do put up a side by side comparison photo, so we can admire some Colnagos. I loves me a C59 and a Master.

• When I had a bike fitting, it was suggested that as long as the contact points were correct, you should go for as small a frame as possible. Technically according to the Cervelo measurement charts I should be on a 56 cm frame (and had one), but after the fitting I now ride a 54 cm frame with a slightly longer stem and larger saddle to bar drop - the difference in performance/efficiency is genuinely noticeable - I'm a convert to smaller frames, even though club mates reckon I should be on a larger frame! (I smile as I kick their arses).

• this topic popped up on velocipede a while ago.  tom kellogg ended it pretty effectively by posting a pic of his own frame (52 seat tube and a 58 top tube, or something ridiculous like that)--which works for him because of his own combination of anatomy and flexibility.

  his point was: don't look at other people's fits.  figure out what works for you: use the measuring and fitting as guides, not absolute rules.  realize your position will change slightly over time for a variety of reasons and don't be afraid to learn to listen to what your body's telling you.  you might not be able to tell if you've been compensating for a leg-length discrepancy without expert help, but once you get a good functional fit that works for you trust it, and don't go looking around at what might or might not work for other people.

  or,  take a good long look at sean kelly.