Self-awareness is a non-optional ingredient of leading a fulfilling life; while we should always push ourselves to explore new things, we should also be aware of our limitations and weigh expectations against them. This is why I avoid any activities involving intelligence or a blow torch, and take particular care to avoid those involving an intersection of the two.
Learning to work on our machines is a path any Pedalwan must learn to walk, starting with simple tasks – perhaps to tune a derailleur or brake – and progressing gradually to building the bike up from a bare frame, seeking out a Cycling Sensei wherever new skills required suggest the need of one. A bicycle is a paradox; though it is a simple machine where one can plainly see the workings of most components, it is nevertheless deceptively difficult to maintain properly. Cables and chains are things of tension and their proper adjustment requires a delicate touch.
Bicycle maintenance today is easier than it was in the past as some tasks that used to take care and skill – such as adjusting bearings in a bottom bracket or hub – have all but been eradicated from the skills needed to maintain a bicycle as loose balls, cones, and races have been replaced by sealed cartridge bearings that are pressed into place and secured with a bolt. Adjusting these old bits required a mechanical sensibility that one seems either born with or without and is not easily taught to those who lack them; adjusting modern bearings requires little more subtlety than setting the dial on a torque wrench.
Wheel truing and building is a skill that goes back to the origins of Cycling and one which continues to live on, at least for the time being. Wheels are a marvel of engineering, one made more miraculous when, like me, you don’t really understand how they work: thin, flexible spokes leave the hub at various angles, some leading and some trailing the rotational direction as they either push or pull the wheel as we force it around using a system of chain, gears, and pulleys optimistically attached to our feet.
The wheel is kept straight and round by a delicate balance as spokes are matched in opposite pairs and tensioned to distribute forces not only laterally, but also vertically. Furthermore, spokes really only have strength in tension; on compression, they fold like a Schleck in a time trial. A well-built wheel depends on a precise balance of 3-dimensionally opposing forces in tension; should the builder fail to take this into account and a critical mass of spokes fail to do the single task assigned to them, I imagine the rider will explore a sharp learning curve as they discover the subtleties of riding a bicycle which goes abruptly from two to one or zero functioning wheels.
I have no delusions of being particularly gifted in a mechanical sense. When I was a kid, my dad called me “Threads” due to my penchant for over-tightening the nuts and bolts on his cherished Campagnolo components, leaving the poor dears stripped and useless. On the plus side, I learned how to operate a tap and die. But I somehow have never been terrible at truing and building wheels; whether its my methodical approach to tasks or my love for symmetry and balance that rescue me from myself when wielding a spoke wrench, the wheels I touch leave the stand true and round – and tend to stay that way.
Wheel building is perhaps the most pure form of the art of bicycle maintenance, apart from actually building the frame yourself; it had been a long time since I’d built a wheel, so I took it upon myself to build my own set for Keepers Tour: Cobbled Classics 2012. In keeping with my appreciation of my own shortcomings, I knew I was going to need a Sensei, and there was none better to turn to than our own Oli who happens to be a world-class wheel builder. Oli unhesitatingly and generously offered answers to my many questions as I collected the parts I would need, and even went so far as to study photographs I sent him when things went awry. That, together with the wealth of information that seems to flow freely on these pages, safely led me through the process, although there were some bumps along the way, assuming you consider needing to build the rear wheel twice and front thrice to be a “bump”.
Iteration 1:
The first round saw a flawless execution apart from one significant fact: when determining on which side of the rim the spoke holes are drilled, it matters which way you’ve got the wheel oriented, and whether you’re looking up at the wheel or down at it. Keeper Jim’s two-year-old son consistently demonstrates that he understands this fact, but still it somehow escaped me.
Iteration 2:
I cleverly determined that I could just move all spokes one hole down and correct the problem from Iteration 1. I performed this task on both wheels before realizing I’d gone the wrong way and buggered the whole thing to the point where sending a photo to Oli resulted in the following remark:
Yes, something has gone wrong. There’s no way that you should end up with that situation no matter what rim or instructions you have.
Right, then. Moving on.
Iteration 3:
Rather than go back round and move the spokes a further two holes the other way, I decided to disassemble the wheels and start over. This didn’t bother me in the least because, as it turns out, building wheels is quite a lot of fun. You start with a pile of floppy spokes and dismembered rim and hub, go through a phase where spokes are poking out every which way, to a moment when suddenly it looks like a wheel and you feel like a genius (until you look more closely and discover you’ve balled the whole thing up). Each time through, I started with the front wheel as it is slightly less complicated owing to the fact that it uses all the same length spokes.
Experienced wheel-builders orient the rim such that the labels are readable when viewed from the right side; not wanting to upset any critical eyes, I naturally took care to follow suit. I also carefully oriented the front hub so that the “R” (Royce’s emblem) was oriented such that it, too, was readable from the right side (in addition to being visible through the valve hole).
Moving on to the rear wheel, I noticed that for some reason, Royce has the “R” inverted so it’s readable from the left side. I let out a slow sigh of resignation as I realized there was no way to avoid rebuilding the front wheel (again) such that the “R” on both hubs faced the same way.
The next day I tensioned the spokes and now the wheels sit in the basement awaiting a pair of tubulars so I can set about mounting them and start riding to ensure that any further lapses in my wheel building skills are discovered now, and not as we enter the Trouée d’Arenberg in April.
[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/Amrossios/”/]
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View Comments
@Simon
How do you know he was using tape? I've seen plenty of glued tubs roll over the years!
@frank
if you had been sent a love letter from the Queen of England, I would have been less impressed - in my former world Dave Ezzy was God - I had a full quiver of his wave sails (actually, still have them if anyone wants to buy a set - look great hanging on a cafe wall...) - anyway, I'm seriously jealous of that man love
doesn't surprise me he is a badass cyclist, as he was a fuckin nutter on a waveboard - one of the great pioneers of big wave sailing in the later early days - sadly before video cameras could be taken into the surf for youtube benficiaries - major inspiro
I use 3M Fast Tack for gluing. One bead right out of the tube one the tire then spread with a finger and one one the rim straight down the middle over the nipple holes (starting at the valve hole and finishing there). Then the tire goes on and if the right amount was used only tiny little bits squeeze out. Its ready to ride in a few hours, bullet proof and has a good residue for mounting old tires when you get a flat. The whole thing takes about 15 minutes...
@Rob
The problem I've had with Fast Tack is of it eating through and separating the base tape from the tire. But its availability in nearly every auto parts store around the US and ease of use you point out certainly saved me from riding the training clinchers on many a summer racing road trips.
@Simon
It was Rudy Dhaenens, but he made up for it by becoming an undeserved World Champion the next year! He was off the front in the 1989 Tour and rolled his tire. But as @Oli says, I've never heard he was on tape? I'd heard he was just on a poorly glued tire.
I've tried many, many times to find that video...
@Dr C
Yeah - his son is a fucking badass as well. Only bloke in the world who can do a no-handed backflip on a windsurfer.
I spent an afternoon drinking seawater with David last summer. Top notch guy, and the origin of Rule 86 after he casually tossed me in the hurt locker on a spectacular ride to Kaupo on Maui.
Frank: So much for a casual ride today!
David: I'm not the one setting this pace, you are!
Frank: I'm just following you!
@Rob, @jimmy
How long does it take to eat through the base tape? And, I'm assuming, this would cause an issue in terms of the tire coming straight off the rm?
Is the rate it eats through relevant to the life of the tire? Seems a very easy and quick way to glue a tire!
Late to the party, been off for a while.
I am lacing a set of NOS F20s to a set of C4 hubs right now. I will post some pics from the laptop
@frank Welcome to wheelbuilding! May you never go back to factory again...
@jimmy
@frank
I hear you on the base tape but it never seemed to be an issue for me. A few times I would re latex and or just re-glue base tapes but usually I would have gone through a tire. Maybe once and a while (all this would also depend on the quality of the tire) the base tape would separated when you were changing tires because the Fast Tack is so strong. I never had any problems on the road and absolutely trusted the stuff. And yes, once you get the technique it is a very good and fast method.
I wouldn't mind to use Fast Tack if the carpet in my living room come loose but never on my tubs.
Fast Tack fast drying properties cause base tape split and separation from the rest of the tire risking rolling off the tire in a moment you'd at least expect it.Since I usually try to repair my tubs using old needle and thread method I want my base tape in the best condition it can possibly be after a puncture.Plus Fast Tack dries too fast so if you are new to gluing tubs and you happen to make a fault it's harder to align the tire properly.
Use it if it works for you but I'm as fast with normal glue method.Since I already have a glue on a rim from previous gluing all I need is a bit of acetone to reactivate it and one thin layer on a rim plus one thin layer on a new tubie.That's it.
The only time Fast Tack is quicker is when you get a new tubular wheelset and have to go through your initial glue layers.