There was a time when bicycles were lovingly handmade by artisans who themselves loved the sport more than those for whom they built the machines. Lugs were filed to become Luggs; chain and seat stays were beautifully chromed for durability despite the grams it added to the frame’s final weight; spokes were chosen for their purpose and laced to hubs and rims in a pattern that suited the specific purpose the wheel was intended to serve. Throughout the process – from building the frame to manufacturing of the components – extra care was taken to make every element of the bicycle beautiful; these bicycles, when you are in their presence, radiate La Vie Velominatus.
As was customary at the time, components would be pantographed and frames repainted and rebranded, leaving behind little evidence of their origin. But hidden in the components and frames were symbols that the manufacturers stamped into their wares to preserve their identity; Colnago their Fiore, Cinelli their C, and Campa their Shield. These symbols have come to hold great meaning within the sport and we of a certain ilk scour the photos of our heroes’ bikes for evidence of their existence.
For a variety of reasons including cost, proprietary tube-shapes, and repeatability of production, these practices have largely died away in mainstream bicycle manufacturing; in fact, nearly every element in the art of bicycle building that requires attention and skill is slowing being eliminated from the craft. Ahead-set stems have replaced the need for a carefully adjusted headset and stem, sealed-bearing bottom brackets and hubs have eliminated the subtle touch required to hold a race in place with one hand while tightening the assembly with the other. By and large, the machines and riders are stronger than the terrain they race over, leaving little practical need for the attention to detail and customization that once came as a matter of course.
There is, however, one magical week of racing where the terrain is still stronger than the riders: the cobbled classics of de Ronde van Vlaanderen and Paris-Roubaix. This is the one week during which the Pros still require highly customized machines and we, as fans, can scour the photos of our heroes’ kit, looking for the symbols tucked away in the components to discern their origins. One such symbol is the brass badge affixed to the valve-hole on Ambrosio rims.
These rims are chosen by the Specialists for their strength on the stones regardless of what wheel sponsorship obligations might exist within the team. Their mystique is further deepened for those of us living in the States because they aren’t available here. It follows, then, that the Golden Ticket, as I call it, is something I’ve coveted for as long as I can remember (which, admittedly, isn’t very long and, upsettingly, keeps getting less long) but have never had a good enough reason to justify procuring from Europe. But Keepers Tour, Cobbled Classics 2012 provided the perfect justification to go about finding a set and I wasted no time in doing so. Upon arrival, the rims spent the better part of two weeks sitting in my living room or next to my bed, patiently waiting for me to pick them up and rub my thumb over the badge, just to reassure myself they were still there.
Not long after the rims arrived, I excitedly loaded a picture of Boonen in the 2010 Ronde and turned the laptop to show my VMH.
Frank: Hey, what do you see.
VMH: Boonen. Goddamn, he’s a stud. Don’t let me too close to him; I can’t be responsible for my actions.
Frank: What about his wheels.
VMH: What?
Frank: Don’t you see? He’s got my rims.
VMH: You can’t possibly know that.
Frank: Openly shows his exasperation by groaning audibly and rolling his eyes. Yes, I do. Check it. You can see the Golden Ticket on his back wheel. Its obvious as shit. What’s wrong with you?
VMH: Sighs, pours another glass of wine. Exits stage left. Hopefully not for good.
*Coincidentally, on the same day that this article was being written, Inrng published a similar (better) article on a related subject of hand-built wheels. Well worth the read: The Dying Art of Wheelbuilding
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View Comments
@Minion
Thanks mate.Very good point to remember since all sealants have adhesive properties and if you don't keep your tires pumped sealant will cause opposite side walls of the inner tube to stick and harden together.When pumping up the tire you will hear a loud whoooshhh and when you hear it don't look at the valve like a fool pretending and swearing cause you know it ain't the valve but you with your pump and the air pressure just ripped a huge gash in your inner tube.
That's a big one to look out for.
@Chris
Thanks Chris.
Tufo sealant works very well with Tufo tires.One important thing to point out is that Tufo tires use butyl inner tubes rather than latex so I wouldn't use it with latex inner tubes however I think it would still seal it with great effect.
@all
By the way is it just me or Tufos with 30ml of sealants inside them really ride like a garden hose?Anybody got more experience with them?
@TommyTubolare
Wow, super info! Somehting else to add to the jersey pocket.
But, that being said, I have always wondered how does one carry a pre-glued spare? I always just carried a pre-stretched spare with me and would ride home VERY carefully if I flatted (only happened one time to my memory) but how do you fold and keep a pre-glued tub under the seat?
Probably a bloody obvious thing but I am clueless on how to do it!
Thanks!
@Buck Rogers
Hey Buck!
Finally got some photos for you.I carry a spare in my jersey pocket and I fold it just like in a photo below.It's an easy method and you can fold a tubular really small especially if not pre glued
Back in the days though when carrying a spare under the saddle folding method was a bit different.
Begin with letting the air completely out of the tubie and lay it flat down with inside edges touching each other
Now fold it up to the valve but stop short.It's easier with a short valve so you can remove valve extender and carry it separate.The pre glued base tape should be pressed against the pre glued base tape leaving the outer tire thread free from glue contact
Now fold under 1/3 of the length from the bottom and one more fold to the top
Now you can secure a folded tubular tight with a toe strap and install it under your saddle.That's the other side of the folded tube
By the way I used rubber bands to help me make photos and you don't need them while folding.In both methods the idea is the same to have pre glued part against pre glued part.In case of a new spare tubular base tape against base tape.Also when properly folded the valve should have no stresses on it.Valve should be sheltered by tire folds.
You can place the tube under the saddle so that the logos are visible out and in that respect depending on a manufacturer your folding technique may be adjusted keeping the principles in mind.
@TommyTubolare
Good Lord, that was worth the wait! Not that I minded about that either, though.
I always would worry that the pre-glued portions would become stuck to each other and then not come apart when I needed them. I usually just placed a non glued spare tubby on my seat post with eletrical tape back "in the day". I will book mark this thread and use this method from now on.
Btw, both wheels cleaned, new Ultrega cassette on, and both tires stretching. Now I just need to take them off, glue them, put them back on and let them dry! Hopefully first ride on sewups in 19 years will be later this week!
@TommyTubolare
Awesome. I was looking all over for something like this recently but your presentation is succint and to the point.
@Nate
Thanks Nate.Glad you found what you were looking for.
@Buck Rogers
Buck it's easy to fold the tire so no way it will give you trouble.To make photos how to do it it's actually harder and you have to use rubber bands and the tire doesn't wanna stay in the right place.
In terms of pre gluing when you do one coat of glue the tire will be dry in no time and once folded the glue reactivate itself once in contact with the glue on the rim.Remember it's not a strong bond but bond good enough to get you safe home.
If you don't want to carry pre glued tire you can actually fold it really small.Dedicate one new tube to be your spare only,for example cheaper slick in 21 mm.If not pre glued it will fold beautifully small and will definitely get you home.
On another note my friend dropped off his Corsa Evo 23mm to be repaired but even though I told him several times do not forget to pump up your tires that muppet forgot in December when he left for holidays.Since his bike is hanged by the top tube in the garage the valve extenders balanced the wheel with the valve down where most of the sealant gathered and after pumping up you know what happened-WHOOSH!!!Few photos below.This tire is retired for good now.
@TommyTubolare
What's your recce on number of glue coats for rims (most sources say 3) and base tape? I ve seen 1-3.
@TommyTubolare
Just finished gluing the front wheel. I used two thin coats on the rim and the base tape, separated by twenty minutes. Used way more glue than I thought I would have to. I only had bought two tubes and I used 1.5 on the front wheel alone.
My biggest question/problem was how do you know that you have it glued on straight? I was trying to match the base tape evenly throughout with rim edge but it never seemed perfect to me. I hope I did not screw it up! Also, do you let them dry with full max pressure or training pressure or lower!
Thanks!!!
@Nate
On new rims 3 THIN coats.Always remember to cover the edges of the rims.Most holding power for tubulars is at the edges.If your brush slips and you end up with a bit of glue on a side of the rim do not worry as you can wipe it off clean later with acetone.
On tubulars 1-2 coats depending on a tire.
On latexed base tape tubs(Vittoria,Veloflex) one coat will do.The coat doesn't have to be as thin as on the rims but don't go ape shit either.One solid coat.Just like with the rims glue must completely cover the base tape to the edges.If a bit of glue ends up on the side of the tire just leave it alone.Do not remove it with acetone.Once dry it will be almost invisible and won't cause any problems.
One thing to remember here is if it's too much latex or latex is spread uneven on the basetape remove it in sections using a single cut mill file or sand paper.I wouldn't worry about Veloflex too much but it happens with Vittorias occasionally.But do not remove it completely as over the years I've noticed that this latex is there for a reason.It prevents and keeps the solvent in the rim cement from loosening the base tape from the tire casing.
On Continentals with fabric (clothed) base tape I always do 2 THIN coats as the base tape soaks more glue.On some new Contis with black latexed base tape refer to Veloflex/Vittoria method.And stretch those Contis a bit longer at max PSI as they are tight man!