There was a time when bicycles were lovingly handmade by artisans who themselves loved the sport more than those for whom they built the machines. Lugs were filed to become Luggs; chain and seat stays were beautifully chromed for durability despite the grams it added to the frame’s final weight; spokes were chosen for their purpose and laced to hubs and rims in a pattern that suited the specific purpose the wheel was intended to serve. Throughout the process – from building the frame to manufacturing of the components – extra care was taken to make every element of the bicycle beautiful; these bicycles, when you are in their presence, radiate La Vie Velominatus.
As was customary at the time, components would be pantographed and frames repainted and rebranded, leaving behind little evidence of their origin. But hidden in the components and frames were symbols that the manufacturers stamped into their wares to preserve their identity; Colnago their Fiore, Cinelli their C, and Campa their Shield. These symbols have come to hold great meaning within the sport and we of a certain ilk scour the photos of our heroes’ bikes for evidence of their existence.
For a variety of reasons including cost, proprietary tube-shapes, and repeatability of production, these practices have largely died away in mainstream bicycle manufacturing; in fact, nearly every element in the art of bicycle building that requires attention and skill is slowing being eliminated from the craft. Ahead-set stems have replaced the need for a carefully adjusted headset and stem, sealed-bearing bottom brackets and hubs have eliminated the subtle touch required to hold a race in place with one hand while tightening the assembly with the other. By and large, the machines and riders are stronger than the terrain they race over, leaving little practical need for the attention to detail and customization that once came as a matter of course.
There is, however, one magical week of racing where the terrain is still stronger than the riders: the cobbled classics of de Ronde van Vlaanderen and Paris-Roubaix. This is the one week during which the Pros still require highly customized machines and we, as fans, can scour the photos of our heroes’ kit, looking for the symbols tucked away in the components to discern their origins. One such symbol is the brass badge affixed to the valve-hole on Ambrosio rims.
These rims are chosen by the Specialists for their strength on the stones regardless of what wheel sponsorship obligations might exist within the team. Their mystique is further deepened for those of us living in the States because they aren’t available here. It follows, then, that the Golden Ticket, as I call it, is something I’ve coveted for as long as I can remember (which, admittedly, isn’t very long and, upsettingly, keeps getting less long) but have never had a good enough reason to justify procuring from Europe. But Keepers Tour, Cobbled Classics 2012 provided the perfect justification to go about finding a set and I wasted no time in doing so. Upon arrival, the rims spent the better part of two weeks sitting in my living room or next to my bed, patiently waiting for me to pick them up and rub my thumb over the badge, just to reassure myself they were still there.
Not long after the rims arrived, I excitedly loaded a picture of Boonen in the 2010 Ronde and turned the laptop to show my VMH.
Frank: Hey, what do you see.
VMH: Boonen. Goddamn, he’s a stud. Don’t let me too close to him; I can’t be responsible for my actions.
Frank: What about his wheels.
VMH: What?
Frank: Don’t you see? He’s got my rims.
VMH: You can’t possibly know that.
Frank: Openly shows his exasperation by groaning audibly and rolling his eyes. Yes, I do. Check it. You can see the Golden Ticket on his back wheel. Its obvious as shit. What’s wrong with you?
VMH: Sighs, pours another glass of wine. Exits stage left. Hopefully not for good.
*Coincidentally, on the same day that this article was being written, Inrng published a similar (better) article on a related subject of hand-built wheels. Well worth the read: The Dying Art of Wheelbuilding
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View Comments
@Nate
Thanks
Another question: the Open Paves have an extremely high thread count but weigh in quite heavy (hence their durability/puncture resistance?) but a tire like the Diamante Radiale Pro has a lower thread count and also weighs less. I understand that a high thread count can mean smoother ride (and lower rolling resistance?) but at what point would the smoothness be offset by weight or does that just depend on one's priorities? Sorry to get bogged down in these details...
@Nate
I'll be hung out to dry by Oli and a few others around here but I'm a big fan of 3M Fast Tack automotive trim adhesive. I've never had a tubbie roll off and it's less expensive.
@scaler911
Never tried that one, but I have now done 4 or 5 tubular tires with Vittoria's Mastik product and am a very happy camper. I have settled on three thin coats on the wheel and four on the tire (the last applied 10 or 15 minutes prior to mounting) making sure I cover the whole wheel surface and mounting strip on the tire. I usually let each coat dry 3 or 4 hours before applying the next (not sure if that is too much or too little time, but it has worked so far).
When I first thought of mounting a tub myself I was pretty apprehensive, but after getting my Sensei to talk me through the first one I realized its a piece of cake- but technique definitely counts!
@Anjin-san
I've not tried another product, but use the same method. The first time I glued up a set under the watchful eye of my Dutch Sensei Hans (who I could only understand about every third word he said), I was super nervous about riding them. First corner l got all freaked, worried about how well carbon would adhere to pavement when they rolled off. Never happened. But, gluing is a exercise in patience for me, something that I sorely lack.
@frank
Thanks - I wish I could find a 57cm in good shape.
What made this version so desirable was that it was made from titanium sourced by Litespeed and made by Litespeed in their Tennessee factory to Bianchi's spec. Litespeed did a top notch job on these and they were trouble free. The real Reparto Corsa Ti Mega tubes were sourced (if I remember correctly) with Sandvik titanium from Russia. Yes, the bane of those glorious '90s Reparto Corsa frames was their notoriety for cracking.
Once my EL/OS gave way at the seat tube/bottom bracket lug I upgraded to the just released 1998 Shot Pin XL Mega Tube which was only offered in the celeste/yellow Pantani replica finish (albeit with a painted to match Profile BRC fork and not a Time Equipe fork like Il Pirata sported). That frame was the precursor to the EV2. Awesome frame but there was a manufacturing defect with the cable stops on the down tube. Pretty much every Shot Pin XL Mega Tube cracked, or will crack, on the bottom of the down tube below or behind the cable stops. I sold my Shot Pin XL before it cracked, the new owner called me a few months later; it cracked. Props to Bianchi USA for giving him a replacement frame even though he was the second owner and didn't have the original receipt.
I stayed away from Bianchi for a few years because I was tired of having to warranty my frame every 2 years... In 2002 I went back (read DEEP team discount price) for an EV2 Olympic model:
This turned out to be my last Bianchi frame. I held on to the Carbon XL for maybe two years before selling it. The seat tube inside diameter was slightly over the spec'd 27.2mm which was a shimming nightmare and I was always chasing creaks and pops. Plus, the frame looked much more spectacular than it rode; I imagine I know what it feels like to ride a frame made of bamboo...
Of course due to the seduction of symbols and pull of nostalgia I would gladly own and ride a Bianchi Reparto Corsa steel frame again. Their geometry works well for me and I like the classic look of their '90s era frames. The ride on my EL/OS was sublime and the natural Ti Mega Tube remains a personal grail bicycle frame.
Locally the natural finish Ti Mega Tube model was dubbed the "Bob Wong Bianchi." Bob was a standout masters racer and contemporary of Pineapple Bob. Bob Wong was a mentor and huge role model for me in cycling. I watched in awe as he ruled the Masters 45+ field in crits, often against the USPS Masters Team, many times on his trademark bike; a natural finish Ti Mega Tube with Spinergy Rev-X wheels. He too made it look easy, way too easy. Especially as I fell off the back of his wheel during sprints on team training rides.
@gravity bob
See; Now that should have been an article right there. I've had a Bianchi or 3 over the years, and they were all steel frames. I figured out that they never really fit me just right, so I didn't get into the trend of getting a Ti or later, carbon frame set. Never had a problem with cracks (but then I weighed all of 67K soaking wet). But, still, when I came back to riding I really thought about getting one. It's Italian, it's Celeste, it's a frackin' Bianchi.
@gravity bob
Mind boggling amount of information
@James
The weight on the Paves might make the wheel a tad slower to spin up. Haven't ridden the Diamantes; in nice weather I ride Corsas which are also 320 tpi, supple as hell, lighter, and roll and corner beautifully.
@scaler911
@Rob also swears by the FastTack. I did some research online because I like to have skin on my body, I'm not a tiny grimpeur and I like bombing twisty descents. Some engineering types at KU did some research into tubular adhesives and found that the Vittoria glue is best, followed a bit by Conti. The Fast Tack was quite a bit worse, although mitigated a lot if you used it in a manner similar to other tubular glues.
@Chris
Chris I'd only add that you shouldn't really wait after you're done with your final coat of glue on the rim,especially if it's the first time you're doing it.The reason is that when you begin to spread the glue starting at the valve,by the time you make your way back to the valve,the glue will be sticky enough to immediately stretch the tire over the rim.That goes especially if you're working in a well ventilated area or outside.That will leave you some more time to align the tire perfectly.Once the tube is on the rim I'd say you have probably good 5 mins.to align the tire so keep that in mind.It's not super glue however once the tire is on concentrate and work fast.The longer you wait,the harder it becomes to move the tire around.Once you're happy with the alignment pump-up a bit more(90-100 PSI)and roll the tire against the clean floor few times,especially the valve area.That way you will make sure the tubular sits well.After that pump-up to max.or just below(I always do around 150 PSI)and let it cure for 20-24 hours.You can probably ride a bit earlier than that but I'd recommend to be patient.
Before you begin your final coat of glue on the rim make sure you've got everything ready when needed.By this I mean pre-stretched,pre-glued,slightly inflated tubular,good pump,cloth or rag,acetone,apron or old clothing(you don't wanna end up with a mastik one residue on your best jeans),something to place on the floor while stretching the tire(your kitchen floor tiles will do,by the way awesome kitchen),anything that will keep the rim clean when placed on the ground will do,open beer to admire your work immediately after you're done.Prepare well and the job will go smooth.