Two golden tickets to Hell

There was a time when bicycles were lovingly handmade by artisans who themselves loved the sport more than those for whom they built the machines. Lugs were filed to become Luggs; chain and seat stays were beautifully chromed for durability despite the grams it added to the frame’s final weight; spokes were chosen for their purpose and laced to hubs and rims in a pattern that suited the specific purpose the wheel was intended to serve. Throughout the process – from building the frame to manufacturing of the components – extra care was taken to make every element of the bicycle beautiful; these bicycles, when you are in their presence, radiate La Vie Velominatus.

As was customary at the time, components would be pantographed and frames repainted and rebranded, leaving behind little evidence of their origin. But hidden in the components and frames were symbols that the manufacturers stamped into their wares to preserve their identity; Colnago their Fiore, Cinelli their C, and Campa their Shield. These symbols have come to hold great meaning within the sport and we of a certain ilk scour the photos of our heroes’ bikes for evidence of their existence.

For a variety of reasons including cost, proprietary tube-shapes, and repeatability of production, these practices have largely died away in mainstream bicycle manufacturing; in fact, nearly every element in the art of bicycle building that requires attention and skill is slowing being eliminated from the craft. Ahead-set stems have replaced the need for a carefully adjusted headset and stem, sealed-bearing bottom brackets and hubs have eliminated the subtle touch required to hold a race in place with one hand while tightening the assembly with the other. By and large, the machines and riders are stronger than the terrain they race over, leaving little practical need for the attention to detail and customization that once came as a matter of course.

There is, however, one magical week of racing where the terrain is still stronger than the riders: the cobbled classics of de Ronde van Vlaanderen and Paris-Roubaix. This is the one week during which the Pros still require highly customized machines and we, as fans, can scour the photos of our heroes’ kit, looking for the symbols tucked away in the components to discern their origins. One such symbol is the brass badge affixed to the valve-hole on Ambrosio rims.

These rims are chosen by the Specialists for their strength on the stones regardless of what wheel sponsorship obligations might exist within the team. Their mystique is further deepened for those of us living in the States because they aren’t available here. It follows, then, that the Golden Ticket, as I call it, is something I’ve coveted for as long as I can remember (which, admittedly, isn’t very long and, upsettingly, keeps getting less long) but have never had a good enough reason to justify procuring from Europe. But Keepers Tour, Cobbled Classics 2012 provided the perfect justification to go about finding a set and I wasted no time in doing so. Upon arrival, the rims spent the better part of two weeks sitting in my living room or next to my bed, patiently waiting for me to pick them up and rub my thumb over the badge, just to reassure myself they were still there.

Not long after the rims arrived, I excitedly loaded a picture of Boonen in the 2010 Ronde and turned the laptop to show my VMH.

Frank: Hey, what do you see.

VMH: Boonen. Goddamn, he’s a stud. Don’t let me too close to him; I can’t be responsible for my actions.

Frank: What about his wheels.

VMH: What?

Frank: Don’t you see? He’s got my rims.

VMH: You can’t possibly know that.

Frank: Openly shows his exasperation by groaning audibly and rolling his eyes. Yes, I do. Check it. You can see the Golden Ticket on his back wheel. Its obvious as shit. What’s wrong with you?

VMH: Sighs, pours another glass of wine. Exits stage left. Hopefully not for good.

*Coincidentally, on the same day that this article was being written, Inrng published a similar (better) article on a related subject of hand-built wheels. Well worth the read: The Dying Art of Wheelbuilding

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

View Comments

  • @xyxax

    Thanks, I've found both The Art of Wheelbuilding and The Bicycle Wheel for download on the same site. Looks slightly sketchy and Russian. Feels a bit like a Rule 58 contravention.

  • @Ron
    I set my saddle height so it feels the same on my bikes. I have come to the point where I judge what's right by whether I am getting natural ankling in the pedal stroke. If the saddle is too high, when I get back from my ride there will be no soreness in the calves from proper pedaling technique. If it's too low I'll feel it in my patellae. The sweet spot is a matter of 2-3 mms.

  • @Ron
    I usually run a level across the top of the saddle and measure from there to the centre of the bottom bracket axle. Using your number one bike as the reference, I would add saddle height for shorter cranks and reduce with longer cranks; i.e. if No.1 bike has 175mm cranks and No.2 172.5s, I would raise No.2 saddle 2.5mm. This keeps leg extension the same at the bottom of the stroke, but be aware that it does affect it slightly at the top of the stroke - if the crank length difference was greater than 10mm I think I'd split the difference.

    Saying that however, I never changed seat height between bikes and have never had an issue at all. Some people are more prone to problems than others with such minute changes.

  • @Oli

    @Ron
    I usually run a level across the top of the saddle and measure from there to the centre of the bottom bracket axle. Using your number one bike as the reference, I would add saddle height for shorter cranks and reduce with longer cranks; i.e. if No.1 bike has 175mm cranks and No.2 172.5s, I would raise No.2 saddle 2.5mm. This keeps leg extension the same at the bottom of the stroke, but be aware that it does affect it slightly at the top of the stroke - if the crank length difference was greater than 10mm I think I'd split the difference.
    Saying that however, I never changed seat height between bikes and have never had an issue at all. Some people are more prone to problems than others with such minute changes.

    What Oli said.

  • @eightzero

    @frank

    @eightzero

    If only you knew someone who loved working on bikes and would be willing to show you how to do it in exchange for a few beers to be enjoyed during the exercise...Its all very easy stuff and you won't break anything, but it is deceptively difficult and its really great to have a Sensei helping out.

    Ah...was I that obvious? eMail to follow when I get back in town next week. I promise to be a good PadoVVan....

    Last time I was in this situation I found that slipping a new pair of cable cutters into my sensei's toolbox as he was leaving made him eager to come back for another round of brews and bike building, but good luck finding a tool frank doesn't already have, or that won't require you to take out a second mortgage.

  • The intro and scaler's bit about his first race bike takes me back to the same era-ish. 1984-5, bought the LBS owner's old raleigh international from bout 1973. sadly(albeit made it affordable) he had converted it to a touring triple workhorse, stripped of most of its racing gear. But reynolds 531 w/ unbelievable shiny detailed chrome lugs, campy dropouts, chrome underneath the gold-green paint. like most teen boys in semi-rural ohio, neglected for 4 wheels at first opportunity, and then "gasp!" TRADED at a substantial loss on a new mongoose MTB w motorcycle handlebars etc circa 1987. Every now and then get a nostalgic twinge to find a replacement, but perhaps better as a memory...

  • @gaswepass

    The intro and scaler's bit about his first race bike takes me back to the same era-ish. 1984-5, bought the LBS owner's old raleigh international from bout 1973. sadly(albeit made it affordable) he had converted it to a touring triple workhorse, stripped of most of its racing gear. But reynolds 531 w/ unbelievable shiny detailed chrome lugs, campy dropouts, chrome underneath the gold-green paint. like most teen boys in semi-rural ohio, neglected for 4 wheels at first opportunity, and then "gasp!" TRADED at a substantial loss on a new mongoose MTB w motorcycle handlebars etc circa 1987. Every now and then get a nostalgic twinge to find a replacement, but perhaps better as a memory...

    Got an e-mail out to a guy that 'claims' he has a Cinelli Cent. for $200. In a 57cm no less. If this is indeed true, it's mine! Need photos of course.

  • ironically, googled the international, and raleigh has brought the model back for 2011- reynolds 853, dura-ace and over 5k. found pics at sheldon brown site of the original, the color was champagne to be accurate.

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