There was a time when bicycles were lovingly handmade by artisans who themselves loved the sport more than those for whom they built the machines. Lugs were filed to become Luggs; chain and seat stays were beautifully chromed for durability despite the grams it added to the frame’s final weight; spokes were chosen for their purpose and laced to hubs and rims in a pattern that suited the specific purpose the wheel was intended to serve. Throughout the process – from building the frame to manufacturing of the components – extra care was taken to make every element of the bicycle beautiful; these bicycles, when you are in their presence, radiate La Vie Velominatus.
As was customary at the time, components would be pantographed and frames repainted and rebranded, leaving behind little evidence of their origin. But hidden in the components and frames were symbols that the manufacturers stamped into their wares to preserve their identity; Colnago their Fiore, Cinelli their C, and Campa their Shield. These symbols have come to hold great meaning within the sport and we of a certain ilk scour the photos of our heroes’ bikes for evidence of their existence.
For a variety of reasons including cost, proprietary tube-shapes, and repeatability of production, these practices have largely died away in mainstream bicycle manufacturing; in fact, nearly every element in the art of bicycle building that requires attention and skill is slowing being eliminated from the craft. Ahead-set stems have replaced the need for a carefully adjusted headset and stem, sealed-bearing bottom brackets and hubs have eliminated the subtle touch required to hold a race in place with one hand while tightening the assembly with the other. By and large, the machines and riders are stronger than the terrain they race over, leaving little practical need for the attention to detail and customization that once came as a matter of course.
There is, however, one magical week of racing where the terrain is still stronger than the riders: the cobbled classics of de Ronde van Vlaanderen and Paris-Roubaix. This is the one week during which the Pros still require highly customized machines and we, as fans, can scour the photos of our heroes’ kit, looking for the symbols tucked away in the components to discern their origins. One such symbol is the brass badge affixed to the valve-hole on Ambrosio rims.
These rims are chosen by the Specialists for their strength on the stones regardless of what wheel sponsorship obligations might exist within the team. Their mystique is further deepened for those of us living in the States because they aren’t available here. It follows, then, that the Golden Ticket, as I call it, is something I’ve coveted for as long as I can remember (which, admittedly, isn’t very long and, upsettingly, keeps getting less long) but have never had a good enough reason to justify procuring from Europe. But Keepers Tour, Cobbled Classics 2012 provided the perfect justification to go about finding a set and I wasted no time in doing so. Upon arrival, the rims spent the better part of two weeks sitting in my living room or next to my bed, patiently waiting for me to pick them up and rub my thumb over the badge, just to reassure myself they were still there.
Not long after the rims arrived, I excitedly loaded a picture of Boonen in the 2010 Ronde and turned the laptop to show my VMH.
Frank: Hey, what do you see.
VMH: Boonen. Goddamn, he’s a stud. Don’t let me too close to him; I can’t be responsible for my actions.
Frank: What about his wheels.
VMH: What?
Frank: Don’t you see? He’s got my rims.
VMH: You can’t possibly know that.
Frank: Openly shows his exasperation by groaning audibly and rolling his eyes. Yes, I do. Check it. You can see the Golden Ticket on his back wheel. Its obvious as shit. What’s wrong with you?
VMH: Sighs, pours another glass of wine. Exits stage left. Hopefully not for good.
*Coincidentally, on the same day that this article was being written, Inrng published a similar (better) article on a related subject of hand-built wheels. Well worth the read: The Dying Art of Wheelbuilding
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@TommyTubolare
I think I love you! Your advice is always bang on, mate. Top stuff.
@TommyTubolare
Fantastic info. I am also new to tubulars, having just received my set of Hed Stinger 6s this past week. This will help me out a great deal and save the embarrassment of a poorly folded spare.
@Buck Rogers
You probably used too much glue but don't worry about it.I use acid brush to spread the glue.Find one that fits nice once pressed into the rim.Start at the valve and spread the glue from the middle point between two spoke holes up and down.Like that when you reach each spoke hole there's only a bit of glue under the brush.That way you will avoid glue entering the valve holes.
Two things always to remember is stretching the tire onto the rim and centering it once on the rim.I like to mount my tire slightly inflated so the tire holds its shape.
In terms of stretching do it evenly on both sides otherwise you will create a radial up and down wobble and it's hard to correct it later.The most common wobble appears at the valve.
When centering side to side do not follow only the base tape but the tire thread as well.Vittorias thread is pretty straight however the base tape might be off center in places.We're talking 1-3 mm here and there.You want to make sure the thread makes a straight line as you spin the wheel.
@Oli
Thanks Oli! As always I really appreciate your comments.
@roger
Thanks a lot.Good decision mate.Once on tubs riding your bicycle will feel special again.
@Buck Rogers
First of all here: 'That way you will avoid glue entering the valve holes' in my previous post I meant spoke holes.You don't want the glue there.Couldn't edit,sorry mate.
In terms of pressure when curing your glued tires max. is not needed.I think 110-120 PSI will be plenty.
While on the subject @TommyTubolare, any wheel stands you can recommend for the whole process? Something minimal, as I live in the city and don't have the luxury of a full garage.
@TommyTubolare
Also, for anyone that is as much of a dumbass as me, make sure that you have the tread going in the correct direction when you glue on the tire on your rear wheel. I realized after getting the rear tire all glued on an hour ago that I had glued it on in the wrong direction. Fortunately, I also had a bit of an up-and-down radial wobble so I pulled the tire back off and am now waiting to remount it in the correct direction and with, hopefully, equal radial stretch!
Front wheel was glued yesterday and looks perfect, if I do say so myself! Hopefully the rear one will turn out as well tonight before I am done!
@TommyTubolare
All done and both drying, the front since yesterday, the rear as of about 10 minutes ago. One last observation/question: There seems to be a bit of a rise at the valve stem region on each tire/wheel radially when I spin them. I tried to restretch and reglue the rear one but it did not go away. Maybe I am just imagining it but is this at all usual? If it is real, will it even out with riding? I tried putting my weight on the tire all the way around after gluing to try to even everyhting out but it did not help with that region.
Once again, thanks again oh holy tubular guru!!!
@TommyTubolare, @Oli
Great info, especially with the Oli endorsement! Thanks gents.
@Buck Rogers
Thanks for the heads up -- totally the kind of mistake a couple of beers would lead me to make.