I’ve been riding for long enough to know that what “feels” good and and what “is” good in terms of technique are two independent sets with a small intersection; it’s very important to put a lot of thought and research into what you’re doing to make sure it offers a benefit. Research takes “work” and “time”, so I’m not very fond of that approach. Instead, I like to do a lot of “thinking”, leveraging both my inadequate expertise in mechanics and my unusually high degree of confidence in my ability to reason in order to jump to conclusions that benefit my initial assumptions.
For example, I believe there is an advantage to riding sur la plaque, or in the big ring, as opposed to riding in the same size gear on the small ring. I generally find that when I’m strong enough to stay on top of my gear, climbing in the big ring feels less cumbersome than when I climb in the small ring at the same speed. The downside is that it is like playing a game of chicken with your legs; it works very well if you are able to keep the gear turning over smoothly, but should you fall behind the gear, and your speed evaporates as you fall into a spiral of downshifting and decreasing speeds (not to mention morale).
All this can be explained away by having good legs or not (un jour sans), but I think there is a mechanical advantage as well.
First, there is the duration of the effort. As they say, it never gets easier, you just go faster, but I firmly believe faster is easier, provided you are strong and fit enough to support the effort. The faster you climb, the less changes in gradient and road surface impact your speed. Not to mention that while all athletes perform the same amount of work when they cross over the same climb regardless of the duration of their effort, athletes doing so in less time suffer for a shorter period of time than do those who go slower. Marco Pantani claimed that despite knowing the suffering that was just around the corner before his attacks, he was motivated to go as fast as possible in order to make the suffering end sooner.
Second, there seems to be a mechanical advantage of riding in the big ring. I’m a little bit hazy on the physics here, but it seems to me that the crank arm is in effect a second-class lever and, while maintaining the same length crank arm (lever) and fulcrum (bottom bracket), by moving into the big ring, you are moving load farther out on the lever, providing a mechanical advantage over the small ring.
WikiPedia defines leverage as:
load arm x load force = effort arm x effort force
In our case, since the speed is constant, that means that the load force (to turn the pedals) is also constant. And, since the load arm (crank) is a fixed length and the effort arm length is increased when moving the chain to the large chainring, the effort force is reduced in order to maintain a balanced equation, meaning that it doesn’t just feel good to ride sur la plaque, it actually is good.
All that said, this theory completely ignores the energy loss of bending the chain as you start to move the chain from straight at the center of the cassette towards the edge of your cassette, in particular when riding in the big ring and crossing to bigger cogs. Q-Factor has an impact on how much your chain is bending as you ride in bigger and bigger cogs, but I think there’s a measurable loss if you are crossing your chain completely (big ring to biggest cog); and I suspect is is entirely possible that the big ring’s mechanical advantages are outweighed by losses in chain friction.
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compacts are a combination of mountain biker's that have turned to road and want to spin and roadie's getting off the juice and saying its okay to spin a smaller gear
Seeing Leif has bumped this post (and without having a hope of reading through several hundred replies to find out if I'm just restating the bleeding obvious) I'd like to answer the original proposition in the negative. It makes no real difference whether you're in a given gear in the big or small rings - you still only travel x distance per pedal revolution. And the smaller ring is stiffer than the big ring anyway.
Also, the Tarmac has 53x39 because it's perceived as the "racing" bike and racers are all Rule V, whereas the Roubaix is really the punters machine, hence requiring the nancy gears...
Ok I'll say my bit since someone bumped it too.
I put on a compact crank when I was out of shape and fat. It was by necessity more than anything else, get up the hill or not, ride or walk. I'm about to graduate back to the regular crank and it's because of aesthetics and the fact that I can now ride a 39x24 equivalent up almost every hill now.
I'm 5'10" and I rode 172.5s for 3 months in attempt to make a change as it seems there is a trend to go to longer cranks and I didn't want to miss out. For 3 months I felt awful on the bike, I thought it was my age, fitness, flexibility, cadence or bike fit and was really getting frustrated that I never felt good on my rides no matter how easy/hard I went, what I ate, the temperature, the hills etc. I put 170s on and within minutes I knew this was the issue. I don't know if the 172.5s were too long for me physiologically or if it was 15 years of riding 170s in the past. Either way I think 3 months is a pretty good try for something like this and I'm convinced that I must stick with 170s.
The lever is about the centre of the crank pivot, not the top of the chainring. No difference due to leverage.
@michael
Hmm very interesting self appraisal 're cranks length, I think I have the same issue going from 170 to 172.5. They just feel doughy while seated.
Just finally learned the physics. Its not the physics of gear ratios. Its the physics of wind resistance. Of my first 8,000 serious miles only 50 of them (and only the last two weekends) were proper group rides hitting over 25 mph for long stretches on flats and over 30 mph in some sections.
From my experience, it doesn't matter what gears I would have when the riding is solo or small groups. I had a loaner bike with a 53/39 instead of a 50/34 and figured the bike was just crap when in fact it was simply I was a gear or two off.
I can barely get over 30 pushing all the wind myself, however in a group the difference in wind resistance means I can do it.
If did regular group rides I would see the benefit of a 53 because you need 53/12 to do over 30 mph at around 90 cadence. If you have a 50/12 you need to hit like 110 cadence.
Same thing if the group decides to drill a downhill at over 35 mph.
Thats the physics. Unless you are a total stud riding by yourself with pro chainrings basically means you are a pro.
And I'm not a pro, so that's that on the chainrings.