Changer de Braquet

The classic gear lever

Some people are supremely good at it, reducing complex situations into matters of simple black and white. This isn’t my particular area of expertise; I enjoy wading through the pools of ambiguity a bit too much to go about bludgeoning this beautiful world into absolutes. In fact, I would venture that delighting in nuance is part of what distinguishes La Vie Velominatus from the simple act of riding a bicycle.

I’ve spent the summer wrapping myself in the Rules handed down by the Apostle Museeuw during Keepers Tour 2012, with particular emphasis on Rule #90. Climbing Sur la Plaque is a cruel business, rising upwards under the crushing weight of physics as you fight to maintain your rhythm and momentum. At first, it’s a struggle to maintain speed on the smaller climbs as you learn how to change your pedaling action to compensate for changes in gradient. You focus on loading the pedals and forcing them around; the moment you lose the rhythm, gravity sinks her claws into your tires and tries to drag you back down the hill. On the other hand, if you maintain your cadence and power through the ramps, what is usually an intimidating slope will disappear under your wheels, making molehills of mountains.

If the Big Ring is a hammer, then not every climb is a nail. (I realize too late that referring to the road as a nail is sure to bring the Puncture Apocalypse on today’s ride.) The guns get more massive from the practice of Rule #90, but it comes at a hefty price: souplesse withers like a delicate flower as one seeks to conquer the art of mashing a huge gear. Indeed, one of the great pleasures in Cycling is to sense a certain fluidity of your stroke which belies the feeling of strength in your muscles as you continue to heap coals on the fire.

This requires an art altogether different from moving Sur la Plaque; it relies on turning the pedals at a higher cadence and shifting gear whenever the gradient changes. Rhythm holds court over everything else and is maintained at all costs. As the gradient steepens, the chain is slipped into the next smaller gear; as the gradient eases, it is droped back down. Not every climb suits this style of riding; the rear cluster must be matched perfectly to accomodate the changes in pitch such that maximum speed is maintained and the legs allowed to continue their relentless churn. When synchronized perfectly, it is the gateway to La Volupté; when not: disaster.

Such is the nuance of shifting gear, such is the nature of Cycling.

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

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  • @scaler911

    You bitches go big ring some hills on these and get back to me. I'm training on these right now, and mashing is the only thing you can do on them.

    Dear god you're making it hard work to like you. Just when we might have forgotten about your indiscriminate gender preferences, and then get over the hump of your power cranks, you go and put fucking platform crank brothers pedals on them. Gaaaarrrrr!

    At least your explanation of how to use them goes a little way to justifying using them. You must be intensely fucking irritating (or absolute dynamite) on a date.

  • @frank

    @unversio

    @frank

    @Oli

    @frank Can you explain the science behind this again, and why you're 100% certain you're right? I'm not trolling here, I genuinely want to understand.

    As to cross-chaining, the greater the angle the chain is on relative to a given cog the greater the friction, hence less efficiency. It's best avoided if possible, as is the fatigue to your legs, hence the reason double chainrings were invented.

    Yeah, cross chaining is definitely more resistancified - and my use of that "word" should tell you all you need to know. But given an emergency shift under load, I'll cross chain over risking a Schleckanical.

    As for the mechanics of the big ring / big cog, I'm still working on it. The back is easy; turn a wheel by the axle and then by the tire, the farther out your point of rotation, the mo'bettah.

    The front is much more complicated, because the rotation point and crank arm length are fixed, and you're moving the chain along that lever to create your mechanical (dis)advantage. I have to jump back on the physics books (or Wikipedia if I can figure out how to make it reliable) to work out the math on it again. It basically boils down to the difference between torque and power.

    To test it though, pick a gear that you can turn fairly easily on a moderate climb that has an equivalent (without crossing) in both chain rings - ride the climb in both gears and see what feels better. Its the big ring every time.

    Not to disprove my own claims, but I was wondering today if the effect I'm feeling has more to do with being in a bigger cog in the back than it does with the big ring in the front.

    I'll quote myself:

    I enjoy wading through the pools of ambiguity a bit too much to go about bludgeoning this beautiful world into absolutes.

    (Redd Foxx voice) Frank, you big dummy! The Big Ring pulls more chain length on each rotation. The Lil Ring pulls less chain length on each rotation. Big Ring "” Big chain distance "” more revolutions on the cassette. Lil Ring "” Lil chain distance "” less revolutions. Dummy! Now go unload that bath tub off the truck!

    Sadly, you get the award for "doesn't get it". You just defined the difference between gear sizes. Completely different thing. We are talking about same gear inches, different ratios of gears and what the mechanical advantage would be.

    A gear inch is a gear inch.  Anything else is in your head -- no less real, but probably not amenable to explanation in terms of Newtonian physics.

  • @Marcus

    @frank

    @Marcus

    @rauce weeeell, I think your bottom bracket height is going to have a helluva lot more influence on clearance than a relatively miniscule decrease to the diameter of your big cog...

    He meant the big ring, genius. The impact of the cog's clearance is reduced somewhat by the FUCKING WHEEL.

    Cog ring, whatever - you knew what i meant you over-sized Dutch cunt.

    @minion
    Are you saying we should start seeing other people?

    Yes I am, although I've found it best when I can't actually see you. I'd advise new suitors to do the same.

  • @frank

    @G'rilla

    @frank If the big ring always gives the greatest leverage, why don't track and single speed cyclocross bikes always use a 53 ring?

    A common CX gear is 38×18, which is the same as 53×25. But people regularly go for the smaller chainring to get the same ratio.

    Or maybe I should try it! It would be intimidating to line up next to someone with a 53 if you only have a 38!

    Because I'm the only person on the planet who holds the belief that its better. Being Dutch, it doesn't bother me in the slightest if no one else agrees; I still know I'm right!

    Seriously, though, there might be something about flex in a bigger ring that offsets other gains, I hadn't thought of that. I was riding a 53 on my CX bike and was having only a little bit of trouble on the steepest climbs in my 53×27. I honestly think that a lot of time people are just picking ratios they're used to and not giving it a lot of thought. A good Cyclist is the perfect amount of dumb, mind you.

    Surely this conversation is about useful ratios, is it not?

    It's all well and good to talk about 53/27 being the same as 38/18, but what happens if you come to that hill and you need another gear? Shift it up to the 28? 30? 34?  Then what? Then you'd find yourself with a bunch of completely fucking useless ratios on the other end.

    Ideally, the gearing should be set up in such a way that at reasonable race pace, you're roughly in the centre of the cassette so that you have scope to shift up and down as required by the nature of the terrain you're riding over.  That's also the primary reason that maunufacturers have evolved a greater number of gears on the cassette so that the ratio's can be as tight as possible. 

    You might have a more "efficient" system in that you are reducing the friction of the chain engaging with smaller chainrings, but that is offset by the amount of mass that you would have to carry with a 53 chainring with a mountain bike cassette up to 34 on the back.  I've no idea which one is the greater evil, but I sure as fuck know which one looks better.
     

  • @frank

    @MartinD

    @frank

    On the other hand, I'm 100% sure you have a better mechanical advantage in the 53×26 than in the 39×19 or whatever the equivalent-sized gear ratio is in the 39.

    Without wanting to seem more of a grumpy old bastard than absolutely necessary ...

    10 and 11 speed cassettes and compact cranks certainly mean that the idea of putting it in the big ring isn't what it used to be. My 1977 Peugeot PX-10 came with a 45-52 and 5 speed 13-21. This cluster was of course just used for training. Everyone raced on a 13-17 (a beautiful Regina Oro version for me - probably the classiest thing on the bike). Some friends had 42 tooth inner rings, but I don't think anyone had a 39.

    It was relatively flat where I grew up, but windy enough that a large part of many races was in the small ring.

    I think it was some time in the 80"²s when the 39 was introduced after the modern spider was developed. Another good thing. Before that, 42 was as low as you could go.

    Wow, a 13×17. Was it hard to see with all that hair on your chest?

    Yeah, 13x17 was what you wanted 'cause it looked so fucking cool.  You of course would be spat out the back on the first hill, but you'd look cool doing it.

    You were right about the timing of modern cranks with the smaller BCD that enabled chainrings t ogo down to 39, but I know for a fact that Campagnolo made either a 40 of 41 that fit on Super Record cranks around about 88 or 89.

    I recall being looking on very jealously as my teammate showed his off before the start of the Provincials that year on a very hilly parcours.

  • @minion

    @scaler911

    You bitches go big ring some hills on these and get back to me. I'm training on these right now, and mashing is the only thing you can do on them.

    Dear god you're making it hard work to like you. Just when we might have forgotten about your indiscriminate gender preferences, and then get over the hump of your power cranks, you go and put fucking platform crank brothers pedals on them. Gaaaarrrrr!

    At least your explanation of how to use them goes a little way to justifying using them. You must be intensely fucking irritating (or absolute dynamite) on a date.

    Don't get your panties all in a bunch. Those aren't mine. It's a photo off Google (notice the pez cycling credit in the photo you sheep fucker). I ride Speedplays. And, weirdly, I bought mine off ebay, and one crank is anodized black and the other gold. Just adds to the aesthetics I think.

  • Alright, I'll testify.  I live in Colorado, and I like to ride long climbs like most of us here. Mostly, I ride a compact with a 12-28 that I use in the mountains and over passes like Loveland, Monarch, Hoosier, etc (either from the east or west), or Pikes Peak Highway which opened to cyclists the entire month of September for $10. I also ride a 53-39 with a 12-28 that I usually use on longer rides along the front range but don't require 1000m of climbing in 2 or 6 Km, BUT, I can still climb with. That's what I love about where I live...go west to the mountains and big climbs, go east to the high plains and flats and wind.

    What and how you ride surely depends on where you are at, at the time.  Last summer, the VMH and I went home to southern Illinois for a short vacation over Independence Day with great expectations of long rides on back country roads.  Foolishly, and I'm not sure why or how, I packed the compact.  While riding the old stomping grounds, I quickly determined that my recollections of the hilly terrain were greatly exaggerated.  I quickly spun out of the high gear.  Only the humid air, "damning elevation" of 165m, and the mosquitos of the Heartland held me back. The mosquitos were the worst.

    My point is is that the big ring and cassette that you use ought to be for the terrain you ride, and mash it hard.  For the average dude, if you want to use a 53-39 and 11-26 around Colorado, I'll see you at the bottom of the next pass.  For the rest of you, don't drink all the beer before I get there.

  • @niksch

    Dude, you need to work on your cadence.

    You're spinning out at 68 km/h at 130rpm based on the development of a 50x12.

    FWIW I'm on a 50x34, 11-25.  The 11 helps.  The only time I've ever spun out was descending a gradient of more than 10%.

    Anyhoo, my point is that I'm pretty happy with the compact thus far.  Maybe if I turn into a real man in the next year or so, i'll go back to the 53/42 of my yoot.

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