The divisive nature of Rule #29 is not to be underestimated. It is but a humble satchel, but our rejection of its use sends people completely out of their minds. One fine gentleman even threatened my editor at Cyclist Magazine with cancellation of his subscription on the basis that they published an article wherein I espoused the virtues of going EPMS-less. If I recall correctly, the reader felt my writing was, “a black eye on an otherwise flawless magazine.” Some people, it appears, really love their saddle bags.
Nevertheless, the truth remains: they are ugly and there is no need for one if you choose your tools carefully and maintain your bicycle appropriately. Granted, if you prefer an al fresco lunch mid-ride and therefore require room for a baguette, some brie, and a nice bottle of Burgundy, you may require more than a jersey pocket. Similarly, if you are of the mechanical inclination that requires you carry a press for on-the-road headset replacements, you might also require some additional storage. That said, if your mechanical skills are at a level that your bicycle is in such a state, I might argue that carrying a cell phone and an emergency contact list is really all you need because the tools are unlikely to help.
But I digress. Ugly though the EPMS may be, it is obviously perfectly acceptable to tie a spare tubular tire under your saddle. This is for the obvious and irrefutable reason that riding tubs is for the more cultured Velominatus and strapping a tire under the saddle is the traditional way the Europeans have handled carrying a spare tire ever since they stopped carrying them strapped over their shoulders. Do not allow yourself to be distracted by the fact that a European Posterior Tubular is often mistaken for an saddlebag. One is a nod to our heritage, the other an abomination sense and style. Trust me on this.
But carrying a spare tub does pose a challenge: how do you roll it up into a small enough package that it (a) doesn’t sway (b) doesn’t rub the insides of your pistoning guns and (c) doesn’t fall off and get tangled up in your wheel.
The first two are a matter of what style of tire to carry. The natural inclination is to carry a spare tire identical to the ones you are riding on your wheels, but that is likely to be a 23 or 25 mm tire and will be rather bulky when rolled up. Instead, the spare should be considered an emergency tire intended to get you safely through the rest of your ride; you’ll be pulling it off and gluing it on properly when you get home, so it can be chosen for its folding size and weight rather than to match it to the tires you normally ride. Then comes the question of how to roll it up into a tiny package which can be neatly strapped under the saddle (see photos). Finally – and I learned this the hard way – if the tire does come loose over some unusually rough roads (say, washboards on a high speed gravel descent), you will want it to stay in the small bundle rather than unwinding and getting tangled in your back wheel.
European Posterior Tubular Guidelines:
[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/Folding a Tub/”/]
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Someone mentioned what about keeping crap out of the spare tub. I don't have a problem with that in clement conditions. If its not nice out, I seal up the spare in a tyvek Fedex envelope. Nothing gets in that thing.
@Cogfather
@pistard
We had one puncture on the sometimes-sharp gravel of Railroad Grade last weekend. The subject tire was...
A Gatorskin.
@Chris
So doesn't your leg rub on it then?
@Teocalli
I have left the house with a spare inner tube on many occasions even when riding tubs...woops. Never the reverse thankfully. I keep all my gear that I might need on any given ride in a small sack that hangs by the bikes. When I kit up I collect from it what I need that day and I'm on my way; it forces me to think about what I'm taking with me which is a good thing.
@Dr C
It amazes me how easily tubs come off once you let some of the air out. I've changed tubs on a ride and I'd argue its faster than repairing a clincher flat.
Good to see you around again, you funny koont.
@Haldy
Beautiful bikes! What's going on with the handlebars on the bike closest to the fence? Or it it in a transitional state of having no brakes, shifters etc?.
@therealpeel
Romanticizing the past while embracing the future is not talking out of both sides of your mouth; it's holding one thing in reverence and using that reverence to put change in context.
And you're confusing Looking Pro with Looking Fantastic. We want to Look Fantastic, not Pro - it just so happens that many Pros Look Fantastic.
And yes, I am such a poseur that I aim to look fantastic anywhere I go, all the time. I do it because I enjoy looking fantastic, even if no one else is around to see me.
And no need to cast off steel. She just isn't my #1.
Unrelated, last weekend I had my very first experience with patching a tube and seeing it still hold air two days later.
While descending MTB trails on clinchers, I acquired a stick as thick as my pinky. I had tire levers and a Lezyne patch kit on hand with the metal scraper tool. A few minutes later and I was good to go. I think the key was scraping off enough of the butyl seam so the patch could seal off all the air gaps.
@wiscot I think it's a track bike. Bars look like 3T Sphinx:
@pistard
I believe you're right! Damn weird looking bars though . . .
@Ron there are several types of tape that will allow conversion of a standard clincher rim to tubeless. Of course, Stan's sells tape to do it, as does AmericanClassic. I've even done it the cheap way & used Gorilla tape procured at Home Depot. it requires only non-porous rim tape of some sort. The biggest key is to sand down the anodization in the rim bed to ensure secure tape. You can use pre-made valves, also available from Stan's or AC, or just cut the valves out of a pair of popped tubes. It is absolutely best to use removable core valves to ease putting in sealant. Road pressures are more than adequate to keep the bead seated, even on a non tubeless rim. That is the only real difference between standard clincher rims & tubeless ones, the bead shelf. As for you specifically, most Ksyriums do not have the outer rim wall drilled, so they are even easier to go tubeless on. You don't even need tape to make them airtight. Unlike MTB or cross tires, it is essential to use tubeless tires as a non carbon bead will blow off at road pressures. There are several good videos on YouTube that will show exactly how to do it. It is easy. Some say that you need an air compressor to gain initial bead seating. I've found this to be bullshit & have setup up many wheels using a standard track pump. Tubeless ready rims can be setup without sealant, non tubeless ready need sealant to work. I don't know why you wouldn't use it however, as it basically eliminates punctures. I cannot stress this enough: if you try tubeless, you will be an immediate convert & never ride with tubes again. Hope that helps!