European Posterior Tubular (EPTB)

EPMS." width="620" height="465" /> The European Posterior Tubular, tied on by a toe strap. This ain’t no EPMS.

The divisive nature of Rule #29 is not to be underestimated. It is but a humble satchel, but our rejection of its use sends people completely out of their minds. One fine gentleman even threatened my editor at Cyclist Magazine with cancellation of his subscription on the basis that they published an article wherein I espoused the virtues of going EPMS-less. If I recall correctly, the reader felt my writing was, “a black eye on an otherwise flawless magazine.” Some people, it appears, really love their saddle bags.

Nevertheless, the truth remains: they are ugly and there is no need for one if you choose your tools carefully and maintain your bicycle appropriately. Granted, if you prefer an al fresco lunch mid-ride and therefore require room for a baguette, some brie, and a nice bottle of Burgundy, you may require more than a jersey pocket. Similarly, if you are of the mechanical inclination that requires you carry a press for on-the-road headset replacements, you might also require some additional storage. That said, if your mechanical skills are at a level that your bicycle is in such a state, I might argue that carrying a cell phone and an emergency contact list is really all you need because the tools are unlikely to help.

But I digress. Ugly though the EPMS may be, it is obviously perfectly acceptable to tie a spare tubular tire under your saddle. This is for the obvious and irrefutable reason that riding tubs is for the more cultured Velominatus and strapping a tire under the saddle is the traditional way the Europeans have handled carrying a spare tire ever since they stopped carrying them strapped over their shoulders. Do not allow yourself to be distracted by the fact that a European Posterior Tubular is often mistaken for an saddlebag. One is a nod to our heritage, the other an abomination sense and style. Trust me on this.

But carrying a spare tub does pose a challenge: how do you roll it up into a small enough package that it (a) doesn’t sway (b) doesn’t rub the insides of your pistoning guns and (c) doesn’t fall off and get tangled up in your wheel.

The first two are a matter of what style of tire to carry. The natural inclination is to carry a spare tire identical to the ones you are riding on your wheels, but that is likely to be a 23 or 25 mm tire and will be rather bulky when rolled up. Instead, the spare should be considered an emergency tire intended to get you safely through the rest of your ride; you’ll be pulling it off and gluing it on properly when you get home, so it can be chosen for its folding size and weight rather than to match it to the tires you normally ride. Then comes the question of how to roll it up into a tiny package which can be neatly strapped under the saddle (see photos). Finally – and I learned this the hard way – if the tire does come loose over some unusually rough roads (say, washboards on a high speed gravel descent), you will want it to stay in the small bundle rather than unwinding and getting tangled in your back wheel.

European Posterior Tubular Guidelines:

  1. Find a light, 19mm tubular tire. I use one by TUFO; it has no inner tube so it is skinny and light and rolls up tight.
  2. Pre-glue the tire and follow the below procedure to roll it up (photos).
  3. Wrap an industrial strength rubber band around the tire. This will keep it in its rolled up bundle with or without a toe strap, meaning it will stay in said bundle even as it tumbles from your saddle.
  4. Us a leather toe-clip strap and a leather toe-clip strap only to affix said tire to saddle. No pouches, not fabric straps. Make sure it is tight and secure the loose end of the strap.
  5. Respond to all accusations of violating Rule #29 with a defiant but tempered disgust which subtly hints that the accuser is an unsophisticated clincher rider who doesn’t understand the greater nuances of our sport.

[dmalbum path=”/velominati.com/content/Photo Galleries/frank@velominati.com/Folding a Tub/”/]

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

View Comments

  • @Ccos

    @Dr C

    So has anyone actually changed a flatted tub on a ride? I have yet to try to strip a tub of a rim, but looking t the Zipp video, it looks like the sort of thing you can only do after a hearty breakfast on a sunny morning off

    I have three sets of tubulars on the go, and a can of Zefal 100ml - if I flat on a club ride, my plan is to dive headfirst into a hedge and feign a neck injury - I live quite close to the local A+E, so reckon having made a spontaneous recovery en route, the ambulance drivers will drop me off at the house to save the paperwork

    Otherwise I like your tyrigamy @Frank

    Yep, tubulars were all we rode in the 80"²s. We didn't have EPMS's then: all you had was the tubi under the seat and a frame pump. It isn't as hard as you think to get that sucker off. Of course that was on aluminum rims so you could be as rough as you wanted.

    That said, I have yet to pry the buggers off my cross wheelset and the Belgian tape is causing me some regret.

    I've never needed any tool to get my tires off, but that doesn't appear to be universally true.

  • @Ron

    Cogfather - I run tubeless on my CX race bike. I have some Ksyrium wheels that are happy with Vittoria tires, pretty easy setup. What are you doing on non-tubeless ready road rims? Using a pre-made rim strip? Using a strip you've made from an old tube? I'd be curious to hear more.

    And Frank, you mention needing to carry a baguette and brie. Well, that is why we have our ol' trusty n+1, right? You don't ride your road race bike for a weekend picnic ride. You ride the commuter. Or the Picnic Bike. I'm always baffled when people buy a road bike and then set it up in Sit Up and Beg position with a rising 80mm stem, a saddle with a gel cover, and a rack. Why bother with the road bike? (and don't tell me money! Get a $100 commuter at the local LBS that has trade-ins or a garage sale, and then get a used road bike. You can have both for less than your new Sora equipped road bike.)

    Most road wheelset makers warn strenuously against doing tubeless conversions on clincher rims.  Conversion  works ok on the dirty (MTB) side of things due to the higher volumes and lower pressures.  Unless you don't like your teeth/face, don't convert a clincher only road rim to tubeless.

  • @Nate I've got to call bullshit on that dude. Most wheel manufacturers also include a dork disc & even reflectors on their wheels. Does that mean you use those??? Warnings against tubeless conversion are strictly a liability issue. I can state unequivocally that it can be done safely on any aluminum rim I've seen. Carbon may be another story. Read what Leonard Zinn has to say about it. I've ridden thousands upon thousands of km on converted non-tubeless ready rims & never had any issues. My teeth & face are just fine thanks. Even if you do flat (extremely unlikely) the bead on tubeless tires is tight enough that it will stay seated even when flat, even on non-tubeless rims. Don't be such a pussy

  • @wiscot

    @Haldy

    @therealpeel

    On one side we embrace most things "old school" but on the other we lust the latest greatest laterally stiff but vertically compliant ride possible. Thus we cast off steel in exchange for glorified plastic. We hope to look Pro, but do we have any real idea how a pro rides 90% of the time, while training? Do we really desire to be such poseurs, that every time we kit up we want to look like we are heading to the start line of a pro-tour race?

    Regardless of my ramblings and questions- I recognize that I must Rule #1 and Rule #5.

    Wait...who says we have to cast off steel? Both these baby's are modern steel and wonderfully fast! Equipped with Tubulars as well. ;-)

    Beautiful bikes! What's going on with the handlebars on the bike closest to the fence? Or it it in a transitional state of having no brakes, shifters etc?.

    The one next to the fence is one of my track bikes. Those are the 3T Sphinx bars.

  • @Dr C

    Yes, twice in the last 6000k.   I've got Paves on my winter wheels so never had to change one.  I had a taped on tub on some other training wheels last autumn (dont ask, hangs head in shame) so it was the proverbial piece of piss to change.  I had another puncture the other day and when I took that one off (properly glued) it was quite a push but I find a thin bit of plastic from my tub kit to break the glue bond as you pull the tub off initially, makes it much quicker and easier.  When I compare the time that people spend pissing about with clinchers, they might get them off slightly quicker, but they take a significantly longer time to get the new tube sorted out, what with checking for bits of glass in the tyre and such nonsense. Fear not!

  • @Cogfather

    @Ron there are several types of tape that will allow conversion of a standard clincher rim to tubeless. Of course, Stan's sells tape to do it, as does AmericanClassic. I've even done it the cheap way & used Gorilla tape procured at Home Depot. it requires only non-porous rim tape of some sort. The biggest key is to sand down the anodization in the rim bed to ensure secure tape. You can use pre-made valves, also available from Stan's or AC, or just cut the valves out of a pair of popped tubes. It is absolutely best to use removable core valves to ease putting in sealant. Road pressures are more than adequate to keep the bead seated, even on a non tubeless rim. That is the only real difference between standard clincher rims & tubeless ones, the bead shelf. As for you specifically, most Ksyriums do not have the outer rim wall drilled, so they are even easier to go tubeless on. You don't even need tape to make them airtight. Unlike MTB or cross tires, it is essential to use tubeless tires as a non carbon bead will blow off at road pressures. There are several good videos on YouTube that will show exactly how to do it. It is easy. Some say that you need an air compressor to gain initial bead seating. I've found this to be bullshit & have setup up many wheels using a standard track pump. Tubeless ready rims can be setup without sealant, non tubeless ready need sealant to work. I don't know why you wouldn't use it however, as it basically eliminates punctures. I cannot stress this enough: if you try tubeless, you will be an immediate convert & never ride with tubes again. Hope that helps!

    All this "enthusiasm" may have hurt your tubeless case actually.

  • @frank

    @Ccos

    @Dr C

    So has anyone actually changed a flatted tub on a ride? I have yet to try to strip a tub of a rim, but looking t the Zipp video, it looks like the sort of thing you can only do after a hearty breakfast on a sunny morning off

    I have three sets of tubulars on the go, and a can of Zefal 100ml - if I flat on a club ride, my plan is to dive headfirst into a hedge and feign a neck injury - I live quite close to the local A+E, so reckon having made a spontaneous recovery en route, the ambulance drivers will drop me off at the house to save the paperwork

    Otherwise I like your tyrigamy @Frank

    Yep, tubulars were all we rode in the 80"²s. We didn't have EPMS's then: all you had was the tubi under the seat and a frame pump. It isn't as hard as you think to get that sucker off. Of course that was on aluminum rims so you could be as rough as you wanted.

    That said, I have yet to pry the buggers off my cross wheelset and the Belgian tape is causing me some regret.

    I've never needed any tool to get my tires off, but that doesn't appear to be universally true.

    Cement (Schlauchreifenkitt) may have been better back then -- some sort of Golden Era.

  • @Nate

    Someone mentioned what about keeping crap out of the spare tub. I don't have a problem with that in clement conditions. If its not nice out, I seal up the spare in a tyvek Fedex envelope. Nothing gets in that thing.

    That sort of silver/grey bag that looks much like a Lezyne Caddy?

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