Building a frame has been, since childhood, a dream which always seemed a little bit out of reach. Aside from not being sure how not to do it wrong, I’ve always assumed that, in addition to nunchuck and computer-hacking skills, my lacking of welding skills would render any would-be frame unridable at best and lethal at worst. Not to mention the associated downgrade to my living conditions, based on the assumption that a house is less comfortable after being burned down in whole or in part, and that said burning would terminate abruptly and with little warning the relationship with my VMH.
Unbeknownst to me, @Cyclops has harbored a similar dream. Fortunately for him, having only one eye doesn’t give depth perception in foresight, and as such he wasn’t hampered by my aforementioned concerns. Instead of dreaming, @Cyclops took action: he bought himself a book, a welding set, some cheap tubing, a fireproof suit (I assume), and busied about practicing the basic skills required to build a frame. Once he was sure he had it pegged, he picked up a good set of Columbus tubing, and set about building his first official frame.
For reasons that I hope don’t include “if it falls apart, a face-plant can’t make him uglier”, @Cyclops decided to pay me the great honor of building his first frame for me, serial number FS0001. I had no idea, of course, until I got an email saying he was shipping something to me and would I be home to receive a package. Yeah, sure, no problem, whatever – @Cyclops is a bit of a craftsman and sends me his creations occasionally. A few days later, I get a considerably more worried email, saying that bad weather delayed the package and it would arrive a day later – would I still be home. No, sorry, can’t be – I’ve meetings that I can’t move – one must occasionally do their job, after all.
Worried emails turned into worried voicemails until eventually @Cyclops seemed intense even on a scale adjusted for his usual intensity. But thanks to UPS being late in delivery, I was home by the time the box arrived and I sent a text message saying all seemed well. I opened the door to find a bike-sized box on my porch, and my curiosity was piqued. It’s a funny thing, how used we get to seeing boxes that contain bike parts; my first thought was, “Oh, that looks like a frame” but immediately dismissed the notion as impossible. When I dragged the box inside, my VMH’s reaction was similarly tuned, “Did you buy a frame you didn’t tell me about?”
As I unpacked the box, I migrated through a confused web of impressions and apprehension as removal of packing and wrapping material revealed first an orange frame and then a custom orange frame bearing the designation Nederaap – a play on “DutchMonkey” combining the Dutch words for the Netherlands (Nederland) and Monkey (Aap). Further inspection revealed a beautiful, steel cyclocross frame with carbon wishbone seat stays, handbuilt by @Cyclops himself.
The amazing thing about this frame is how absolutely Fantastic it looks, despite being built by a crazy person. Anyone looking at the frame would have no idea that some dude in Idaho bought a book and blowtorch and built it from scratch.
I’ve been planning on getting into CX for a few seasons, but among the various reason’s I’ve not done so is the fact that I’ve not been able to track down a frame in a geometry that I’m satisfied with. But ‘Clops had a master plan there as well, as he matched the dimensions on the frame to those of my beloved Cervélos – adjusted for CX. Problem solved.
In addition to this being an incredibly kind gesture – and one I really don’t know how to (a) explain or (b) repay, @Cyclops has breathed new life into my dream to someday build frames myself. I look forward to the day he becomes my Framebuilding Sensei, just as Oli recently became my Wheelbuilding Sensei. What a cool, generous community we have here.
With that, I officially start Il Progetto: Nederaap CX-V. For various reasons including that I’d like to move Bike #3 from Shimano to Campa, my plan is to move my 7701 group over to the CX-V. In addition to wanting the same kit on all three road bikes, I like the idea of the ultra-reliable 9-speed Shimano group being the one to be dragged through the mud and the crud. The next order of bidniz is to figure out what finishing kit goes on. 3T Rotundos and Fi’zi:k Arione are no-brainers for the contact points, but the rest is pretty much up for grabs. I’ve always been a fan of Alpha-Q forks, though @Cyclops designed the frame with a Richey in mind. Alpha-Q’s are still available if you know where to look; but surely there are other options, and I like the idea of getting the fork for which the frame was designed. There is the question of wheels as well – do I build up a set, buy complete, or repurpose wheels I already have? Then there are the matters of brakes, chainrings, seatpost, and stem. I can’t think of a better way to spend the next several months but pondering these serious problems at length.
Check out @Cyclops’ framebuilding site for documentation of the process, and start making plans for your first Factory Five frame. @Cyclops: thank you, from the bottom of my heart.
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@Cyclops
Just because I'm curious about frame building, can I ask you please, how is the carbon stay fitted/adhered to the steel 'rear seat stay'?
@frank
I just took took the cantis off my cross bike and installed the TRP CX-9 mini-V brakes. Of course you need V brakes! The name alone makes them mandatory for you.... They are a HUGE and DRAMATIC upgrade in braking performance: nice modulation, much better power when needed, don't squeal (maybe someone else can get ride of squeal from cantis, I never could despite fairly obsessive tinkering), and no fork chatter/shudder. The bow effect creating the front chatter drove me friggin' nuts (as you brake, the fork flexes backwards, incrementally pulling the cable more taught b/c the distance from brake to cable hanger increases; the pads then bite more, then your momentum carries you through and the pads release and the process is repeated -- 5-10x per second) You can go faster b/c you can brake later into a corner. The one downside that I can see is that the pads are positioned a bit closer to the rims than cantis, so mud caking could be an issue, although I've never had it be a problem. My LBS did install a Problem Solver so that I would have the nice modulation and brake feel with my Rival shifters. They will work without, but will be fairly spongy with poor modulation. VN had a joke that cantis didn't so much stop you as squeal to warn the guy in front of you that they were about to be rammed.
I made it through my first cross season without anything too crazy happening to the bike (or me!). I did break a right Force shifter, but all in all skated free. Or so I thought.
Was running the dog on some grass on my back-up cross/do it all bike when a stick promptly jammed right into my RD and before I could get my feet off the pedals, snapped it right off. Yeah! At least the 105 5700 RDs aren't too expensive from some Euro dealers.
On another note & since we're discussing technical stuff, I'm about to go insane trying to find 1mm housing liner to recable a bike with internal routing. I have a leftover section a shop gave me, but it's not long enough. Not sure if it was from a Nokon cable kit or Jagwire. I was after 1mm liner but couldn't find it, so ordered 1.8mm Jagwire stuff. Too wide. At this point I'll even buy an entire cable kit just for the liner (I want to run this liner inside the built-in liner to be safe and not drop the liner inside the frame.) I don't even care if it's bike-specific.
Anyone have an idea on where I can find more of what I have? Or around 5' of 1mm housing liner?
@Ron
Is this the sort of thing you're looking for with the continuous inner liner?
@brett
That is elegant but it wont solve the heavy modulation problem that's likely with that large a frame. I struggle with the issue on my ALAN. If he goes canti hell need a fork mounted cable hanger. That will also allow him to get the same stack hieght. That said, peeps talking about the mini-v from TRP may be on to something. Id like to try those on my bike.
I like my eggbeaters. So enlighten me.
If you have a reasonably high budget, a pro set-up (based on Sven Nys and Niels Albert): Shimano all the way. Pro Vibe 7s, xtr pedals, DA Di2, they also have a special crank set: CX70 or CX50. wheels: DA C24, C35 or C50. mostly C35. definitly tubes! dugast rhino for heavy mud, grifo for better conditions, slicks for sand and dry tracks. No brakes needed.
I would take a saddle you are used to.
Dugast tubs on Enve rims laced to C4 hubs.
Great job on the frame!
@Chris
Hey Chris! Thanks for the reply. Hmm, not sure. I can't really tell. Is that blue piece in the set liner which goes inside the housing? I need really thin liner, like 1mm. The "up to 1.8mm" stuff from Nokon was too large.
I did find out from the shop that the piece I got was left over from frames they have with internal routing. Maybe the Specialized Cruxs? They don't have it separately, just what comes already inside the frame.
They steered me towards the Jagwire L3 liner, but those seem to be 5mm. Too big again.
@brett
Some night, I'll wake up with @Cyclops standing at the bedside holding a dagger and chanting. I will think something along the lines of, "Oh shit." It will be my last thought.
@Cyclops
Or see me giggle like a six-year-old girl.
@Ron
I'm pretty sure it is an inner liner. I think I've got their brake lines on my BMX - I'll check that tomorrow evening. The Gore sealed kits might do you perfectly, they've got a thin liner that runs full length even to provide the sealed element. No clogging up with crap anywhere. I've got them on my mountain bikes. Fit and forget. I'll try to measure the diameter of the liner tomorrow evening as well. Not tonight though, beer may make that slightly inaccurate!