Eight point V bar. From the moment I bought my first set of high quality road clinchers, I’ve ridden at that pressure. I started with that number because that’s the pressure the sidewall told me to pump them up to; I didn’t yet understand much about balancing the benefits of high and low pressures to optimize comfort and friction; I just pumped them up as instructed and off I went merrily down the road.
I’m not as thin as I’d like to be, which is the same thing as saying I’m fatter than I should be, though I certainly hope I climb well for my weight, especially as my third (and hopefully charmed) ascent up Haleakala is looming large in Vajanuary. The point is, I’m not a whippet and even if I starved myself for the next five months and subsist exclusively on IPAs (I draw the line at cutting beer out of my theoretical diet; I might get desperate, but I’m no savage) I’d still be an Eros Poli at best. Being a big guy, the only factor that mattered to me when it came to tire pressure was avoiding the pinch flats that plagued me during my time riding cheaper tires and that meant maximum pressure, no questions asked.
We always dialed our pressure in for Mountain biking and would pull a few pounds out of our road tires when riding in the rain, but by and large, tire pressure was tire pressure, and as far as I was concerned, more was better. I even had a set of 20mm tires on a makeshift TT bike I had that I blew up to a whopping 10 bar. In the last few years, however, the Cycling world has become obsessed with doing the limbo and seeing how low they can go on tire pressure. It all began with an article in Bicycle Quarterly which conducted an extensive and flawed study on the effects of tire pressure and tire width, and concluded that lower pressure and wider tires are faster and more comfortable than high pressure, narrow tires; the idea is that lower pressure allows small bumps to be absorbed by the tire rather than bouncing the bicycle (and rider) in the air, and that wide tires flex more efficiently than narrow tires resulting in lower rolling resistance. Its important to remember that this gain in comfort and efficiency also comes with an increased risk of pinch flats.
This is all well and good, of course, though we always have to be careful to remember the basic principles of such a compromise; lower pressure and wider tires also mean an enlarged surface area which necessarily means more friction; a perfectly hard, narrow tire on a perfectly smooth surface would have almost zero friction, to the point that you’d be unable to gain enough traction to actually move the bicycle at all. What we’re after, in a practical sense, is a balance between the two extremes which optimizes comfort and tire efficiency against reduced surface area and the risk of pinch flats.
I became infected with Tire Pressure Fever myself as the Cycling world became increasingly obsessed with tire pressure. Down went the pressure in my tires and immediately I felt sluggish and lethargic on the bike. Climbing out of the saddle, I could feel the tires flex as I unleashed the Awesome Devastation of the Toothpicks of Navarone. Cornering was like steering in molasses; turn the bars, weight the pedals and then wait a few moments while the bike got round to responding.
These observations first had me reaching for the pump and then got me theorizing about what is really going on with tire pressure and what pressure is right for a given rider. I say “theorizing”, but most other people would use something closer to “guessing assertively”. But that doesn’t mean I’m wrong.
Basically, it comes down to finding the highest pressure and narrowest tire you can that gives a rider of your weight the right amount of tire flex such that your bike isn’t bouncing as it rolls over the tarmac and allows it to roll efficiently, all while minimizing surface area, risk of punctures, and sidewall deformation when accelerating (cornering and climbing are basically the same as accelerating; the acceleration vector is just in some other direction than forward.) This means that each rider at each weight with different preferences on the sliding scale between the above compromises will find a different optimal pressure. Impressed by Tom Boonen’s tire pressure at Roubaix? Tread carefully; that pressure was dialed in based on very specific criteria and unless you’re eating the same cobbles and weigh the same as he does, you’ll need a different pressure to find the same balance. Bicycle Quarterly has a chart that shows what they believe to be the ideal pressure by rider weight, though I don’t believe a word of it; I do however entertain the possibility that I could be missing something based on the fact that I didn’t actually read the article.
Me? I’m still happily riding at 8 point V. I’m comfortable, I’m not flatting, and I’ve got good control. Besides, it just has a nice ring to it.
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@ChrisO
I'll clarify...I like the ride--not the flats. I thought it was bad luck, but your report is making me think otherwise...
Now I know why I am getting lots of flats lately. I never thought the pressure would be the solution.
I have been running 23mm gaterskin tyres at the rim max of 110psi since I had them, but recently took a spill on a corner in the rain (A badass practicing Rule # 9 but learning about the reduction of cornering confidence as described in Rule # 64) and decided that I would experiment with lower pressure at 100psi. I really liked the lack of vibration, but have had 5 pinch flats on the back wheel in a week. According to the chart, I should be running about 155psi on the rear (100kg with a 60% load on the rear.)
I I think I will go back to the proven 110psi on the rear, and might leave the front at 100psi. That should fix it!
BTW: does anyone else have trouble getting gaterskins to run round after changing them? Mine like to bulge and take a bit of a fiddle to seated again. What do you do?
Mmmmmm interesting reading ....... appears to be no "Standard Operating Procedure" here .....
Running 23mm Conti GP4000s up front @ 95 psi and 25 mm Conti GP4000s out back at 90 psi ....... why ...... i dont know ...... just feels right .....
Plus I like the sound of different tyres and pressures as it assumes I have thought about some mystical reason for doing so.
"if you cant play the game, least look like you can" .........
25's definately give a smoother ride or our crappy South Oz roads. But I like the 23 up front as it gives great response.
This is something I have always struggled with. On the Carbon steed I usually go 7.4 and 7. on the steel bike I go a bit less(I really want 25mm tires on this bike as its just a get around bike)
Today I pumped the 29er tubeless tires to 2 bars, and that felt like a bit much on the trail.
Im thinking I need to revisit my strategy on this.
@Barracuda
There is a good thought. 23mm front and 25mm back. That makes a lot of sense. Personally I like 25s front too to avoid pinch flats but I do like your idea of mixing it up. I think someone already said it but that maybe what those Michelin Optima tyres are all about with their dedicated front and back.
@RedRanger
Nah, I'd suggest that's about right. What width tire you running?
FTR, I'm 70kg, run tubeless 2.25's with 28psi.
One day we will have a full Velominati conference with hundreds of svelte sub 100kg sticklings in lycra waxing lyrical about all things light, bright and fast. I will stand there like a "man mountain". I am Eros Poli....but without the engine and with the corresponding girth to make me look normal.
This discussion confuses me a little, I think the time would be better spent praying to the God of Snakebite Flats (GSF) and sarcrificing vestal virgins on altars made from worn out tyres.
I roll on 23mm Gator Skins at 120psi (er...think that is about 8.2bar). My fighting weight is a good chunk north of 100kgs and I flat maybe 3 times per year. I swap out and crack on with ner a thought for it, dink a cheeky wink at GSF and say "you got me today old man....but I am looking forward to sacrificing double the amount of virgins tonight!"
Where did science ever come in to it? The secret is to watch where you are going surely?...
The bastard chart stops at 70Kg what use is that? According to the 10Kg/1bar rule of thumb my tyres shout be at around 90bar :( .
@E Unless you're riding a unicycle, you should be OK, it's a 70kg wheel load not rider weight.
If you are on a unicycle you may be on the wrong site. Each to their own, though.
@E
I feel your pain - mine would have so much pressure in them that metallic hydrogen would form and/or nuclear fusion would take place.
And don't let Frank catch you using emoticons or you will be in a world of shit...colon hyphen close brackets irony