I suspect that whoever first put a set of downtube shifters on a bike immediately knew that while it was superior to having the shifter on the seat stay, it was a design that was going to be improved upon. Not only did it require being seated to shift, it also required taking your hands off the bars. Shimano got close with the introduction of the STI shifter in the early bit of the 90’s, although the decision to allow the brake lever to pivot laterally was a fundamental flaw.

I remember the first time I saw a set of STI levers in person; I was at County Cycles and they had a complete set of Dura Ace 7400 in the box. It was a truly beautiful groupset, and the metal details on the shifters were as stunning in my hands as they were glinting sunlight off the Pros as they crossed countless finish lines with their arms aloft. The price point was well out of reach, and so I dove headlong into various experiments to find a way to get my shifters on the bars.

Bar-end shifters didn’t look cool so they were out, full stop. I first tried Grip Shift, which was a complete disaster, partly because they didn’t shift well, and partly because they required twisting the bars and invariably introduced a terrifying wobble toward either traffic or the ditch. The low point of my experimentation involved mountain bike thumb shifters mounted near the brake levers, but I couldn’t get them positioned in a way that I could reach them. Cue more wobbling into traffic. Finally I got a set of Suntour Command Shifters, which were basically double-ended thumb shifters that were mounted at the brake lever. These might have worked well, except I couldn’t afford a Suntour rear mech, and the Command Shifters couldn’t get along with my Shimano 105 drivetrain. I had no alternative but to set those shifters to friction, which meant even more wobbling about as I tried to coax it from one gear to the next. But being unsuccessful didn’t mean it wasn’t fun, and when Shimano finally released a 105 STI version – which I could afford – I was that much happier to finally realize my dream of having functional handle-bar mounted shifters.

I’ve never liked the lateral pivot off the STI system, though, and once I could afford to, I moved to Campa and their superior design of incorporating a Go Button along with a paddle shifter. Campagnolo, for all its beauty and functional flawlessness, does require some coddling. It doesn’t particularly like being dirty, and I find myself tweaking the cable tension a few times a week – just a fraction of a turn – to keep it perfect. Because a perfectly tuned Campa drive train runs more perfectly and more silently than anything else – and the Principle of Silence holds sway over all else.

When it came time to building up my Graveur, I never seriously considered Campa because doing that on a bike intended for taking regular mud baths demands something less finicky. And I really don’t want my brake lever wobbling about as I’m trying to control a bouncing, bobbing machine on a twisting gravel or single track descent. Shimano was out, which left me with the choice between Command Shifters and SRAM. SRAM it is, then.

It took me an age to get used to how to adjust it, and how to shift. It requires a lot less cable tension than Shimano or Campa, a trick that took me a while to discover. Upshifts are totally awesome – tap, tap, tap and the chain just drops down along the cassette irrespective of mud or sticks or whatever is in there. I found half a tree trunk in my cassette after my ride this morning, and it didn’t adversely affect the shifting. The front shifting is absolutely blazingly fast, once you get the thing adjusted correctly. And the hoods themselves are very comfortable, possibly even more so than my 10spd Ergos.

But to this day, I still have to think about downshifting (push, *click*, push a bit more, *click*). And Merckx forbid I try shifting more than one gear at a time – I’ll invariably lose track of my clicks and wind up air-shifting between cogs. That’s going to inspire some new curses in a race situation, so there’s that to look forward to.

frank

The founder of Velominati and curator of The Rules, Frank was born in the Dutch colonies of Minnesota. His boundless physical talents are carefully canceled out by his equally boundless enthusiasm for drinking. Coffee, beer, wine, if it’s in a container, he will enjoy it, a lot of it. He currently lives in Seattle. He loves riding in the rain and scheduling visits with the Man with the Hammer just to be reminded of the privilege it is to feel completely depleted. He holds down a technology job the description of which no-one really understands and his interests outside of Cycling and drinking are Cycling and drinking. As devoted aesthete, the only thing more important to him than riding a bike well is looking good doing it. Frank is co-author along with the other Keepers of the Cog of the popular book, The Rules, The Way of the Cycling Disciple and also writes a monthly column for the magazine, Cyclist. He is also currently working on the first follow-up to The Rules, tentatively entitled The Hardmen. Email him directly at rouleur@velominati.com.

View Comments

  • @Nate

    @frank

    I didn't have a spare - shame on me. Also, this being my first time using pitstop, I fucked it up. I meant to ask you to re-post your instructions for how to use that crap.

    The instruction for using pit stop is don't. It doesn't work for shite.

    What about using the leak stop thing from Hutchinson for CX punctures that don't seal when riding tubeless?

    I have only punctured once doing a cx training ride and didn't have it with me. Costs $10 or $12 though.

    What are other folks doing in this situation, tossing in a tube? Limping home? Using the Hutchinson pit stop stuff?

    Has anyone seen this Giro helmet? Cool for commuting and a nod to LeMan or...just don't do it?

    http://www.westernbikeworks.com/product/giro-reverb-helmet?v=bupz00m&utm_campaign=products&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&adl=1&gclid=CIXNsZGJnLkCFYiY4AodpAUA-Q

  • Oh, and I put a new chain, new cassette, new crankset on my cx bike. Bigger outer ring necessitated moving the FD a bit too.

    Same Force shifters but the shifting is nice, smooth, and good for the first time I've been on SRAM. I didn't monkey with the RD though but damn, after two years of half shifts and rattling chains today every shift was precise and smooth.

    The Bro-Set might have been getting a bad wrap due to poor set-up. That ain't cool, bro.

  • @Dr C If i may ask, why do you want to go road disk? I don't really see the advantage in road racing. If anything, it's just more rotating mass. A good road caliper has enough power to lock up both wheels at 30km/h.

  • @Weldertron

    I think the argument for road disc is in modulation, not outright power.  Proponents say that being able to hold the wheel right at the limit of lock-up is easier than with rim brakes.  My own findings: certainly true on mountain bikes, but the difference between a clean, smooth aluminum braking surface on a rim with high quality pads and a disc brake setup is much smaller when talking about road bikes.

    Accept the inevitable.  In five years we will all be riding hydraulic disc equipped electronically shifted bikes with 15 gears in the back.  That's when the big argument will be whether anti-lock braking controlled by the Di2 computer is necessary on road bikes.

    "15 gears is too many!  I got along fine with 14 gears and non-abs brakes!"

  • There has been a lot of development put into hydraulic calipers. In my opinion, a much better idea. You won't need proprietary wheels.

  • @EricW This is a very slippery slope, electric gears, ABS hydro brakes, power steering, where to stop, servo power assist for climbing?!?

  • @VeloVita

    @Dr C

    You may want to have a listen to this discussion on disc brakes for the road

    http://velocastcc.squarespace.com/tech5/2012/12/13/episode-1-meet-sean-lally.html

    Great conversation there. Supports my experience riding Avid BB7s for a year.

    People assume that new tech is always better. Sometimes it's just different.

    MTB manufacturers adopted pressfit and BB30 bottom brackets and then realized they are horrible when the slightest amount of dirt enters the system. Many top manufacturers backtracked to traditional threaded bottom brackets, and it eliminated the problems of the newer (but worse) pressfit technology.

    Not to mention that Avid hasn't significantly changed the design of the BB7 in 10 years. So is this new technology, or better tech, or just something different that needs to be critically evaluated like anything else?

    I have a set of BB7's that are sitting in the toolbox unused.

  • Don't get me started on BB30. (if you want to REALLY hate BB30, watch the FSA BB30 video, the way he says it makes me cringe.)

    I have an adapter in the mail to run a rival crank. I've regreased my BB30 twice in a month and the click keeps coming back.

  • so if I upgrade my cdale to ultegra should I get an adapter to run the ultegra crank or get a proper bb30 crank? im conflicted

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