I don’t know how a guy who shows off the better part of a half meter of seat post comes to the conclusion that his saddle is too low, but that precise thought occupies an enormous amount of time. Ever closer looms the minimum insertion point on my seat pin, yet I am irrevocably bound to explore its limits.
I actually wish my legs were shorter; long legs are only useful for the anorexic models who distort our youth’s self-image and for skipping steps on staircases. At the same time, I’ve spent the majority of my life wondering if my seat post was slipping; has my saddle always felt this low? In previous years, I have known better; the question will claw its way into my mind, usually when I’m struggling on a climb, and I will look at the strip of tape I’ve stuck around my seat pin just above the clamp and note that it has not curled up due to the pin sliding through. The saddle is at the right height.
These days, I’m riding a fizik seat post and fizik seat posts come with this cool little sleeve to mark the height. It works perfectly, apart from the fact that it doesn’t curl up like the lowly electrical tape does; were the seat pin to slide, the sleeve would simply side with it. Which means I have to judge the distance between height demarcations on the post to decide if it’s slipped or not. It used to be higher; I’m climbing this badly because the saddle slipped down a bit.
These are easy lies we tell ourselves; that the lack of performance is borne of a problem in our setup – our position or our equipment. Merckx was famously obsessive about seat height, why shouldn’t I be? I just make a casually deliberate stop at the roadside, swiftly raise the saddle a bit, and stage a Cyclocross Remount – the only way a Cyclist should ever board their bicycle once the ride has begun.
But then I got better at judging the marks on the fizik post, and was sure it wasn’t sliding. But still my power was waning and surely it wasn’t my form because I’ve been riding like a thing that’s been riding a lot. Perhaps my position on the bike is evolving, perhaps I should reconsider my stem length and slide my saddle forward to get more over the bottom bracket. Except that I’ve ridden happily in roughly this position for years – and in roughly the same form.
Then came the rains; they had been lacking this Spring, almost to a fault. It had been several weeks or even a few months since I’d been astride my Nine Bike. I set off, and was struck instantly by how comfortable I was, how fluidly the pedals were spinning, and how easily I gobbled up the climbs. Was I peaking today instead of in the usual Two Months, or was there something more sinister going on? There was no question of longer stems and saddles sliding forward; I had the usual sensation that I was in my element, that I was born to be in this position on two wheels and that walking was a locomotion I was leaving behind in my short-lived evolution as a human being.
Knowing the geometries of the two bikes – #1 and The Nine Bike – are virtually identical, I decided to revisit the measurements on #1. I measured the Nine and checked them against #1; the only difference was that the saddle on the #1 had crept up a whopping 4mm. Four millimeters over a saddle height of of 830. I climbed aboard her and set off, amazed at how good she felt. Immediately the power was back, the inherent comfort of riding a bike returned.
All over a lousy 4mm.
Fellow Velominati: we are all students of La Vie Velominatus. We must look to the future and seek to evolve; to experiment with new positions, new techniques, and with new technology. But we must also look to the past and recognize what worked well, when did change affect how well we ride our bikes or how much we loved it? To recognize the boundary between the evolution within us as athletes and to adapt to what feels good over time and those that erode our capacity as riders can be difficult. Sometimes we need a Sensei to help us recognize the difference, other times it will come to us through solitary meditation.
Embrace change, but also keep it at a distance. We should always be ready to return to the past and rediscover what worked before and apply it to the chance we face in the future. Vive la Vie Velomiantus.
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@all Thanks for the tips, I will give it a clean in the first instance then re-tighten it and see if that works.
@ChrisO I may well be wrong but I was under the impression that carbon paste etched the gloss surface somewhat.
Fit done and dusted on #1 in January this year, shims, seat up and forward and feeling better. Time on bike now is the only cure for how shit im riding.
Rode the VMH's bike with kiddy seat tonight with #2 child on board. Mrs "Cuda" is 5ft farkall and Im just a bees dick under 6ft so I definately looked and felt like Froomy tonight - refer said spider rooting a lightbulb.
May get the spanners on it and slam that stem and whip the seat post up, she'll never know!
There's a prevalent myth that raising one's bars and lowering one's saddle will make a bike more comfortable, leading to the prevalence of galaxy-class headtubes and spacer stacks on many bikes.
Does this work for some people? Sure. If you have very limited flexibility (i.e. you can't touch your toes) low handlebars are going to be a challenge. Riding a beach cruiser? Sit up and beg, by all means. It giveth and taketh away, though: questionable aesthetics aside, raising the bars is going to mean a ton more road shock beating up your middle back.
Once upon a time, under the influence of my LBS and Grant Peterson, I too used the sit up and big position. I had terrible problems with my back, especially in the Thoracic area.
As an experiment, I got out my old fixed gear, slammed the stem, raised the saddle, and never looked back. Back pain issue = solved.
@antihero On a similar "got out my old xxx" thought, I've been thinking that riding The Butler with clips makes me focus on a smoother stroke as you can't rely on pulling/pushing against the cleat. Do cleats make us lazy and hide poor technique so should we spend some time training on clips/flats?
@antihero +1. I can't slam completely due to neck problems, but sitting up just puts way too much pressure on the backside and back.
@Teocalli
Gloss surface ???
The paste is applied on the seatpost where it fits inside the tube.
I don't think it would do any more surface damage than a clamp or the act of inserting the post in the tube, plus it reduces the risk of cracking the post by over-tightening. Carbon seatposts tend to be matte anyway for reasons of grip and scratching as they go in and out of the seat tube.
@antihero I had somewhat of a similar experience: chronic shoulder and neck pain on long rides all through my college riding days. After I got a new stead 8 years ago I had the old bike repainted but the stem needed replacement and I could only get one 2cm longer. Presto, no more neck pain. I also just set the repainted rig up by feel and remarkably the thing has the exact measurements (reach, seat height) as the newer bikes.
My position has also gotten much lower over the years although my flexibility continues to suck.
To see the look on my mechanics face when I asked "Maybe we can put a set screw in thru the seat tube to keep the post from migrating?" We put in a complex Tecate beer can shim to keep all in place. Marked the edge of the shim with a silver Sharpie -- silver Sharpie vanishes during Rule #9.
@VeloSix
I called it "cheating back" the millimeters here and there after my basic fit with a trusted pal at the LBS. The 0 degree 90mm stem (recommended by LBS pal) begat a -17 degree 130mm stem that begat 140mm. Now I'm wanting to "cheat back" up a few millimeters on the seatpost -- keeping the same setback.